C8AX Tac Sign

[T Creighton]

Hi Mick,
I will be sending you some deck pics and some notes on dimensions tonight.
Cheers Terry

[Rob Beale]

Here are some pics of the under deck supports.

The deck sits on 4 1/2" x 2" bearers full width. Three of these are bolted with coach bolts down thru the bearer and through an angle bracket welded flush with the top of the chassis rails. The bearer behind the wheel arch is bolted thru the top flange of the chassis rail.
These are all bolted to the deck panels by a pair of coach bolts at each end.

The bearer under the middle of the front locker, and the short one over the chassis arch are held by countersunk screws down thru the flange on the edge of the body sides.

Note also the simple mudguard and H frame mudguard supports, also the stirrups under the back of the deck.

Rob

[Ausmick]

This little project started off a nightmare, but ended up being nothing. Pulled the wiper motor apart and it was set solid with a line of old grease. The gasket kit had broken in the process. Grabbed some 0.4mm gasket sheet and knocked out two new ones. Cleaned up and rebuilt.......don’t think I will sweat as much on the second one.

Has anyone got a picture of where the hose runs to connect this ‘stone age’ contraption? Was there a shut off valve in the line? All the hoses have been long missing from this truck.

[T Creighton]

Rob has covered it nicely Mick. Your deck mounting will be the same as the NZ made 30 cwt only shorter with similar brackets welded to the chassis.
With mine I figured that because the crossmembers are fitted inside the panels I would make each side and the front separately, fit all the cross members to the chassis and then fit the sides from each side and weld it up in place. Worked well.
Instead of drilling down through the timber crossmembers I made U shaped brackets that are bolted on but this was not really neccessary
Terry

[Rob Beale]

I've re-timbered a couple of original decks, and found that if you chamfer the corners of the timbers, they fit into the deck with a bit of persuasion. Cutting them a little bit shorter helps too, and doesn't affect the bearing capacity!

Drilling down through the timbers is by guess and by God, but if you hold your mouth right, you'll find the hole in the chassis bracket. Using a smaller drill bit to drill a pilot hole can help too.

The old timbers have just had coach bolts with a split washer and nut. We have used a pair of nuts for security, but its easy to see most of the nuts from outside to ensure they are tight.

The radio shack, with its timbered body apparently had over-long bolts with springs under the washers. The GS body is able to flex with the chassis, so plain bolts are fine.

cheers
Rob

[Rob Beale]

Here's a couple of pics of the canopy frame.

Its fairly basic with the hoops from 1-1/2 x 3/8 steel flat, and sheet steel on the ridge and corners. The diagonal braces are from 1-1/2 x 1/4 flat, as is the shoulder blade level back rest.

The hoops just drop in to rectangular holes in the top edge of the deck.
There is a block of 1-1/2 x 3/8 flat welded to the outside of each leg as a stop (or rest) so the hoops sit at the right height.

Rob

[T Creighton]

You may have already seen this clip Mick. There are a few good deck shots including the tailgate.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHhWgg4ns-Y
How are you progressing?
Cheers

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Ausmick

This little project started off a nightmare, but ended up being nothing. Pulled the wiper motor apart and it was set solid with a line of old grease. The gasket kit had broken in the process. Grabbed some 0.4mm gasket sheet and knocked out two new ones. Cleaned up and rebuilt.......don’t think I will sweat as much on the second one.

Has anyone got a picture of where the hose runs to connect this ‘stone age’ contraption? Was there a shut off valve in the line? All the hoses have been long missing from this truck.

For the 13 cab, the lines ran from the wiper motor (that included a shutoff valve) to a T fitting at the center post of the windshield frame and then downward. Most of the length of the lines were hard lines, the rubber connecting lines were fairly short. I've never seen reference to a a separate shutoff or speed regulating valve.

[Ausmick]

Just about got the Overflow Tank finished this weekend. The width of a tank is supposed 6¾ but I found some pipe on the scrap heap at 6½ so called that close enough. Made a dye to press out the little ‘bubble’ in the top lid. Hope to run an inlet and overflow pipe in during the week.

[S LATHERON (RIP)]

Hi
The vac metal pipes on my 13 cab are 1/4 brake pipe and just use a 3 way brake pipe brass union.

[Bob McNeill]

The bubble as you call it covers the overflow pipe. the top of the tank had several holes around the pipe which went all the way thru the tank, to drain when tank FULL. fit the pipe into tank proud 1/4", drill 4 holes then cover with large welsh plug.