1940 Chev C15, Cab 11 restoration in Holland

[David_Hayward (RIP)]

The casting number 839253 appears to be a Canadian 1940-5 Block. I have so little information on the MR-prefixed series but it seems that they were fitted in C8s, but they stopped being assembled in late 1941. The C8A series in effect replaced, and the engine number appears to relate to a truck built around May 1942. This leads me to suggest that the engine is out of a C8A, and was transferred to a replacement block at some time. However, I may be totaly wrong!

[jaap de wit]

thanks to explain this to me david. while I wait on the crankshaft to be ready I want to find out everything about the engine and the hole car infact and do the smaller things on the car, like the radiator, the batterybox , ect, ect.
when the radiator was putt together I started on the batterybox, the lit neaded some new hinges. dos anyone know where the holes in the lit are for ,
was there a sort of padding screwed in the lit ?
the floor plates where sandblasted and painted to, what a differents.
this is very rewording work when you see everything come together like new.
cheers jaap

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by jaap de wit

thanks to explain this to me david. while I wait on the crankshaft to be ready I want to find out everything about the engine and the hole car infact and do the smaller things on the car, like the radiator, the batterybox , ect, ect.
when the radiator was putt together I started on the batterybox, the lit neaded some new hinges. dos anyone know where the holes in the lit are for ,
was there a sort of padding screwed in the lit ?
the floor plates where sandblasted and painted to, what a differents.
this is very rewording work when you see everything come together like new.
cheers jaap

Jaap..
You are doing really nice work...The "Checker plate" floor is the "Dot and dash" pattern..very rare and used in the early trucks..Every square inch of that should be saved//..to patch holes and what not,,
Throw nothing away...nice work.
Alex

[jaap de wit]

thanks alex i am saving every bit of the floorpanels.
here are some more pictures 2 of the driveshaft wich was easy to do.
the front window I took apart witch took some time to get the screws undone. there where a some wholes in the bottom corners to weld, but overall the window was good except for the glass.
luckely dirk leegwater had some nice windowclass for me, thanks dirk.
the window is now ready to a samble, but first the engine again because the crankshaft is back from the machineshop
so finely I can start on the engine to put it together jeeee.

[jaap de wit]

first i want to wish everybody a happy new year and good luck on all the restorations that going to be done this year.

now it is very cold in holland so you can't do much, but i try anyway so I put the front window together. for the rubbers around the glass I used the same ones for the jeep, I used soap to get them in the frame and this works fine.
after some work the window was together again. after this I start with the engine crankshaft and bolted the flywheel on to it (watching my marks I made) and then placed it in the engine on it's new bearings.
I fastend the cups and it turns nicely. I also placed new expantion plugs in the side of the engine. I also putt the oilpomp and lines back in place and a new oil screen form dirk (it was still in it's original paper).
cheers jaap

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Great job and Happy new year to you too..
Just a little info on the proper tecnique on bearing adjustment..
You probably have done all this a thousand times but just a refresher in case you forgot something from too many Christmas Heinikens..
Alex

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-...learances.html
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If you are going to measure a crankshaft, assemble the engine together with the crankshaft installed with the new bearing inserts in the block and main caps. Make sure all the caps are numbered, in order and installed properly with the arrows pointing forward. All fasteners/bolts will need to be torqued to specification.
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Step 2
Loosen the bolts of the bearing cap that you want to check clearance on. Remove the bolts and the cap. Wipe assembly oil off of the surface of the crankshaft where you want to check for clearance, use a clean lint free paper towel or cloth.
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Step 3
Tear off a piece of plastigage. You will need to open the paper to remove the plastigage, place the plastigage across the surface of crankshaft. Try to position the plastigage in the center of the journal surface. Install the bearing cap and torque bolts to specification, remove the bolts and the bearing cap. You will see the crushed plastigage on the journal.
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Step 4
Using the paper that came with the plastigage, use the scale on the side of the wrapper to measure the crushed plastigage. Compare your measurement to the clearance specification, if you are within range then you are ok to assemble. If the measurement falls between two sizes then you can estimate what the size in between is.

[Keith Brooker]

Hello Yaap,
Have a Good NEW YEAR as well.
Keith & Nel

Well done with the truck. Anything going on May the 5th in Holland?.