C15A - WO16 - Chev Blitz - Looking for guidance

[peterinair67]

Made a lot of progress this week.

[peterinair67]

Getting ready for Chassis and Engine re build. Having fun. A lot of original paint, bolts and stuff that has never been apart. Going to have a lot of questions.

[S LATHERON (RIP)]

Hi, Looks like you will have reduced the weight of that rig by a ton Or more just dumping that timber tray.
Before the scrap man gets the Upper steel frame just check it out for dimensions as it looks like the back 2/3 of another CMP mounted upside down,
If it is then you make be able to get a couple of good repair sections from it to rebuild the Truck chassis to a Standard wheelbase.
There are a couple of recognised ways to cut and lengthen/ shorten chassis that give a strong joint and will be as good as new, A straight top to bottom cut, to give a square end profile is one way then cut the donor chassis to match .Weld together and then add an internal Brace [flitch plate ] [fish plate] not forgetting to >_< the flitch internaly to relieve stresses.
However, many years in the truck industry and having seen this done by experts. cut the truck chassis at an angle [sorry do not know the number of degrees ] but at a guess 45 degrees. Then cut the doner frame to match.
A good FLAT FLOOR, a SET OF STRONG AXLE STANDS TO SUPPORT BOTH HALVES of chassis, AND most important lots of Steel angle to clamp all the bits SQUARE.not forgetting to measure the diagonals to make sure that it is not only level but parallel. TACK weld all the brace bars in place before attempting to weld the halfs together.The true advantage of this join, known in the UK as a SCARF joint is the length of the weld on a slope is far greater than a top to bottom joint. Much more substantial and Permanent, stress of weld is reduced as it is spread over a greater length.
Finally an insert flitch plate complete with cut aways to further reinforce the repair fitted on inside Also >_____< to relieve stress on the road.
I personally cannot weld and I would be happy to give this sort of work to a Qualified welder, Although it may cost a bit more but will leave a ready to roll tidy join and safe chassis for your Rebody project. One that you can depend on on or off road

[aj.lec]

from the MB-C1 manual

FRAME—J - 2
Use of heat is not permissible when straightening frames. Heat weakens structural characteristics of the frame members and all straightening should be done cold. Frame members which are bent or buckled sufficiently to show strains or cracks after straightening, should be replaced.

CUTTING, REINFORCING, RIVETING AND WELDING
Whenever it is necessary to remove or cut the frame, the rail should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, in other words, make the actual cut twice the width of the rail. This method distributes the cut and weld over a greater area than a cut made at right angles with the rail.
Reinforcements can be made with fiat, channel, or angle stock. Because of difficulties encountered when inserting the channel reinforcements into the frame side rails, the use of angle reinforcements is recommended. Wherever possible, the reinforcement should extend the entire length of side rail or at least 18" beyond the cab cross-member. This procedure, of course, is impractical in many instances because of the position of attached units and existing cross-members. The reinforcement stock thickness should be securely riveted together. Hot rivets are recommended, as they can be properly driven with hand tools. Cold rivets are not recommended unless heavy power press equipment to obtain secure fastening is available.
In addition to thoroughly welding a cut in the side rail, the outside edges of reinforcements should be welded to the frame after the reinforcements are riveted. All unused holes should also be filled with welding material. The welding rod should be substantially the same material as used in the frame.
The diameter of the reinforcement rivets, depends upon the spacing and the number of rivets used. Generally, the rivets are 50% to 100% as thick as plates to be riveted.

[S LATHERON (RIP)]

Hello Andrew
Well my guess that the angle of cut was 45 degrees was correct.
You have written proof from the manual that this is the best way to proceed if any one has a frame to " adjust ". I have worked in the heavy truck industry in the UK at dealer level for 40 years [makes me old I guess] and have seen many chassis altered to suit various needs, I have also seen the bad effects of poor modification and unsuitable body mounting ,Twisted frames, Frames cracked at stress points like UN WELDED UN USED bolt/ rivet holes.
I am sure the guys that stretched this original 101 w/ base never thought that it would still be in exsistence 40 plus years on, maybe a compliment to there welding ability.
Regards Stephen

[aj.lec]

It is a bit hard to tell from the photos but it looks like they used the ends off a different chassis and slid it over the original chassis and welded it on
Behind the flitch plate they have used has it got the original hitch holes at the end of the original chassis (where the draw bar bolts) ?

Another interesting thing i noticed about your chassis is that it has the 1/2 crossmember behind the winch crossmember .The 2 i have here do not have this crossmember .These are both Sydney manufacture .I wonder if this was a Sydney vs Melbourne difference ?

[peterinair67]

Andrew & Stephen, Thanks for the detailed comments on how to approach the Chassis for me. All the comments are very, very helpful indeed.

We think that the Upper Chassis and the part used to extend the 101“ wheel base to 129“ is off a C60. They did slip over the C15A Chassis as you thought Andrew and used the holes for the leaf springs and the actual double springs off that same C60 set up for the rear set up. The welding is good & has a 2 ft overlap. They did fill in Holes too as you suggested & they are solid. I have braced with a L shaped section that is 1.3 m long and bolted to side and lower parts of the rail to temporarily straighten it all up so we can get everything together. Someone else suggested I replace the chassis with a new C15A. Not sure if I will be able to either find or want to do that. Still considering. In the mean time, we braced everything and have replaced all bolts on the rear, including the spring mounts. The brace you referred to was off the upper Chassis but they had installed that upper chassis upside down do it was questionable if it was adding much strength. I shaved 3 mm off each side and installed into the smaller C15A Chassis (bolted up and down) and think this will give us more cross strength and it has helped to bring everything into alignment, all directions.

Now that it is all stabilized, we can keep on moving it about and get on with our planning for the project.

Very happy to get all that timber off but also the WINCH… ! It was Huge and so, so heavy. Just listed on OZ ebay now. It is a monster. See the pictures. I am going to search for the original Winch for a C15A and put as it would have been originally with the PTO set up that is all in 100% working condition.

[aj.lec]

I think you may want to take your winch off ebay then
It looks to me like a cmp winch with the housing slid to one side to allow for the bigger drum ,of which you will probably find is the original drum with an extension welded in the middle
the cmp winches are big as they are basically a ford differential cut and modified

[cliff]

Originally Posted by peterinair67

Very happy to get all that timber off but also the WINCH… ! It was Huge and so, so heavy. Just listed on OZ ebay now. It is a monster. See the pictures. I am going to search for the original Winch for a C15A and put as it would have been originally with the PTO set up that is all in 100% working condition.

That is a CMP winch as Andrew stated with a widened drum on it and it fitted All models of CMP and was the only type of original winch for CMP's. So if you want to add a winch to your truck I'd remove it from eBay and keep it.