Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829;

i have read the thread on posting pics, i cant seem to get my imgaes like a film strip which most you guys do, i used the add image on the reply box, but it still brings them up as i have been doing.

Use the enter key so that each [img]....[/img] appears on it's own new line.

[kevin powles]

hi rich, nice fenders, word of warning, the mounting holes for those fenders are not the same for either side, dont measure one side and mark it out for the opposite side. mark the mounting holes from your old fenders you have removed then check them on the hull before drilling.

dont drill your side skirt holes in the fenders until you have the fenders mounted on the carrier and bolted in position. that way everything will line up spot on.

those three holes in the front can be drilled now with them off the carrier.

not teaching you to suck eggs, but nothing worse than holes which dont line up.

see you saturday.

kevin.

[RichardT10829]

cheers for that. all advice is always welcomed.... have not drilled any holes as you can see, i wanted to use my previous ones. they did not have the holes drilled in the front, i was wondering if the fenders you got were from a T16 ? if not they have been drilled for the extra guards on the front.

struggling like hell with the brake drum i had a puller on it tonight, placed the nut back onto the drive tube wound it on flush then made a spreader to go across the tube. the puller fitted perfect. had some serious presure on it, but she still wont let go, i have sprayed tonnes of penetrating oil in the hub. think i will pull the whole drive assembly and get it pressed off somewhere.

need to get a hoist from a hire firm or somewhere so i can pull the lump out too. at the minute she looks in a right mess, i am desperate to get her as an empty tub so i can blast and etch prime her, but these things take time and i dont want to lose or snap anything in the strip down. still need some acurate patterns for the armour so i can get them cut / machined

so much to do but its all great ! i spend more time just staring at the damned thing i should get my finger out hahahaha

Rich

[horsa]

The T-16 fenders aren't as deep where the center curve is at. Side wall is only about two inches all along the edge where the skirt would bolt on at the outer edge.

I'm working on the side skirts this weekend on my carrier and having fun getting the bent fender to play along. Will post photos for comparison on my restoration thread tonight sometime.

Good to see you making fast progress on your project. Keep at it.

[RichardT10829]

Cheers David, just hope she is half as nice as yours turned out !

[RichardT10829]

Eureeka. got the hub off it appears that it had been a combination of the brake shoes sticking onto the drum and the asbestos seal that runs between the backplate and the hub. My old man came and brought a large slide hammer which did the trick no problems at all, and more importantly without damaging anything.

plenty to press on with will eventually post pictures up but as there are only subtle differences at the moment, i will wait until there is a vast change before posting up.

[RichardT10829]

thought i would pop a few pictures on, front plate is now removed, the pedal array looks ok all be it seized up, iam not looking forward to trying to remove them as the bolts are pretty badly corroded. The linkages on the whole are not too bad, but some are well past safe use.. at least i have something to copy.

center bulkhead and lump to come out along with cross tube and cam plate (which is toasted) then i can get it blasted and primed. lots and lots to do but with baby steps i will get there in the end.




the rear bogey wheels are toast too, big chunks missing from the cast plus rubber gone, i am going to have the gaps welded and made good (my pal can wled cast no probs) then get a local firm to re rubber the wheels


and finally the drivers side drum is now off

[Stew Robertson]

Just a little hint on your drum removal
If you have heating bud for your cutting torch take it and warm your drum up and it will seperate the drum from the shoe
wait about an hour or so until it cools back to room temerature then just heat up the outer ring of the drum for a few minutes - it will expand enough to pull the drum off the shoe THE DRUM WILL BE HOT SO USE GLOVES
Lots of luck
Stew

[kevin powles]

Rich, Is that a Golf trolley wheel in the background.......don't tell me you have surcome to the 'creeping death'......shame on you !.

Kev.

[RichardT10829]

Nah buddy it's my chainsaw... :-) I don't do golf....I prefer hurty sports like ice hockey and rugby.

[RichardT10829]

Anyone got a valve seat cutter I could borrow ?

[Lynn Eades]

So what do you own a chainsaw for? Was it to enlarge your garage? The photos from outside your place didn't show any trees. Sorry, no cutter. Mine will go to the engine reconditioner

[RichardT10829]

One tree left Lynn, the rest met an untimely death :-)

[RichardT10829]

Well I finished rebuilding the valve assemblies today and polished the valves, out of the bits that were returned to me, it appears I am two valves missing. I got some lying in a bucket of bits which Shaun gave me, but the guides are not great. Infact I am not 100% happy with most of the assemblies that I have built from my motor.

On a good news note I have sourced a valve seat cutter hurrah !

Can anyone tell me what the tollerence is on the guides for the flathead ?

Perhaps I am being picky, just my previous experience has been with forced induction stuff where everything needs to be perfect.