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#1
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I still have two of the trouble prone 6 Volt divers bell coils ..if anybody wants one . I see them at swap meets too..they are not worth much really . A NOS example I bought when I had the Ford, is a aftermarket brand , not FORD, but made in Sydney NSW. The little brass post for the primary wire is sometimes broken off , as it protrudes out above the main body.
A local here runs a 6V external coil , with an adapter that fits to the top of the diver bell coil.. it runs very well without the usual heat up trouble.
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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#2
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The problem is consistent in that it always starts great from cold. It never quits while running, but after a good run if you shut it off, it won't go (lots of gas, not so much spark). The resistor in the dash is burning hot and the coil on the top of the distributor is nice and cool (though I'm touching the plastic case and not the windings on the inside).
I like the idea of an eternal coil, one with an internal resistor wired through a dummy Ford coil. Added to my to-do list. |
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#3
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Hi,
Is the motor turn tight ?
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Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
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#4
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No, it cranks the same hot or cold. If it was getting stiff wihen hot, what does that tell you?
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#5
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Quote:
after it hot the motor turn tight
__________________
Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
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#6
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Hmmmmm. There could be only two reasons I can come up with. Either the unburnt fuel is gumming up the cylinders and rings or the heat is expanding something. There shouldn't be any greater electrical draw with a hot motor but if the battery was running down somehow it would seem like it was getting harder to crank.
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#7
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it might be related to the starter motor also getting hot by heat transfer. Possible problems in the starter could be either electrical efficiency changing when hot or mechanical due to clearances of bearings or other parts changing when hot.
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