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#1
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I use permatex No. 3 ...you get quite fast at hole punching after a while . I once saw a VW beetle with silastic repair in the fuel tank.. the owner had stripped down the caby 3-4 times , but small bits of the stuff kept on clogging the carby up.
The neighbour here uses liquid nails, the builders adhesive , for many applications..he restores X series Falcons from XK to XF . He's a bush mechanic, but very clever too. BTW does anyone know where to buy sheets of the special diaphram rubber used in carburettors ... Like Phil, I print out the shape and use it as a template . They ask silly prices ( $20 ) for a 5 cent bit of rubber , and I'd like to make my own. eg, the Land Rover Solex carby has 2 of them Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#2
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Why print, cut and punch gaskets when all you have to do is place a piece of gasket paper oer the part tap around the edges with a small ball pein hammr and tap the holes with the ball end. I've cut gskets as small as the bowl on a zeneth up draft carby on a Jap motor sucksfully this way.
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Robert Pearce. |
#3
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I've tried numerous gasket silicones and one brand The Right Stuff is way better than any others I've used. It's black and expensive and comes in a caulking type tube. You have to be careful with how much you use but oil leaks just don't happen.
I've taken engines apart where somebody went overboard with RV sealant and the oil pump pickup was half plugged with the stuff.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
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