New Member from the UK

[RichardT10829]

cheers guys, she is all paid for now, Ledsel i have fallen into that trap when restoring 1960's Mk1 minis (the bits canbe hard to get) throwing what seems to be junk out only to find it wasnt !

everything will be catalogued photgraphed in situ prior to the tear down, center bulkhead removed, glacis removed basically a bare tub which i will media blast and red oxide prime to seal it. The guy selling it said one side is locked up and the track does not turn, i reckon it may be easier to pull the tracks rather than risk breaking something off trying to crack it free.... but i am open to suggestions. Kevin mentioned removing the drive shaft.

lots of plans for it, but need to know colour schemes etc all the trinkets will be cleaned primed and then pre coated.

[ron]

Hi Richard,
If it was me I would drop the track off when you get it. its far easier to move it around on wheels than tracks, if they are as bad as you say dont bother too much with them, you say that you have another set lined up so why bother with the old stuff just put it away for a rainy day,anyway putting it back on its tracks is one of the last things that you will have to contend with,we all do things in different ways but thats how I would approach it I have done a few over the years and its works for me,
Anyway good luck and congratulations I for one will watch your progress with much interest, Regards Ron

[charlie fitton]

Definately tow it around with the tracks ON. Otherwise you will just have a pile of siezed track and nothing to do with it.
Pull the axles first to avoid damage to the innards that are left.
If you don't want the track, don't ship it to the UK, I'll take it off yor hands, someday I'll make a gate guard with one of the last projects. Besides, it will be easier to load in a container.

[Ledsel]

that muffler that I siad didn't look like it belonged, dosen't. I found this on a snowmobile site.

[RichardT10829]

cool. cheer ledsel

[RichardT10829]

well Pickup date is set for 11th May, all ready to go ! Rob got the details off the engine plate (from the photos we just could not make out)

details as follows

Torgis Engineering Co.
Reconditioned motor specifications
date 1534 Job no 0004-106 undersize 030
main size 010 throw size 010

I take it the engine has been introduced at a later date perhaps during a service ? does anyone have any info on this firm etc ?

Cheers

Rich

[RichardT10829]

anyone able to offer any advice or info on my engine ?



Rich

[Lynn Eades]

What do you want to Know?
The main bearings, and big end (conrod) bearings are 010 thou. under size, and the bores are 030 thou oversze at the last rebuild.
the mains and big ends can go further to 060 under size, and the bores can go to 080 over size(maybe morewith pistons from the states.
You will have to measure it all up once it is pulled down to see how much wear there is. Best senario is new bearings, and rings, along with all the other stuff that needs doing.

[Ledsel]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

cheers guys, she is all paid for now, Ledsel i have fallen into that trap when restoring 1960's Mk1 minis (the bits canbe hard to get) throwing what seems to be junk out only to find it wasnt !

everything will be catalogued photgraphed in situ prior to the tear down, center bulkhead removed, glacis removed basically a bare tub which i will media blast and red oxide prime to seal it. The guy selling it said one side is locked up and the track does not turn, i reckon it may be easier to pull the tracks rather than risk breaking something off trying to crack it free.... but i am open to suggestions. Kevin mentioned removing the drive shaft.

lots of plans for it, but need to know colour schemes etc all the trinkets will be cleaned primed and then pre coated.

I have never seen the track itself break or even the pins from towing, Sometimes you have to give them a little bit of a whack here and there with a hammer to get them started. Heat works on something really stubborn but you have to be very careful as that makes it easy to twist a pin when it's hot. Your problem with one track is most likely rusted brake shoes, (stuck to the drum). Some proper pounding here is usually all it'll take. The steering linkage may have been pulled and the rocker shaft at the wheel mite need to be tapped to release it alittle. Anyway once you get it you'll be as happy as a p---- in s----.

[Jordan Baker]

Not sure if any of you noticed or not but the last picture posted has a cover on the steering cam plate.

Ive heard rumours of this but never actualy seen a preserved example. On a wrecked carrier we found bits of canvas and a bunch of lift the dot fastners but that was it.

When you get this carrier please take some pictures of this canvas part and make up some plans.

[Ledsel]

Yes Jordan, I had a canvas one on my MKII. I guess the MKI must have been leather. Would be nice to get a copy made off of that one as it looks to be all there.

[tankbarrell]

Originally Posted by Ledsel

I have never seen the track itself break or even the pins from towing,

I have. In my limited carrier experience, I had a Windsor which I recovered from a playground. It had sat for many years and when the guy I sold it to came to collect it, the only way we could load it was to tow it on to his trailer. Despite it rolling ok when I unloaded it a few weeks earlier, several pins broke from twisting as we put in on the trailer.

It was only the pins though as they had rusted in to the links. The track itself was fine.