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#1
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Here in Canada I have found that auto parts stores sell what is claimed to be a solvent specifically for cleaning brakes - I have not had a chance to use it but I would like to hear from any one who has -Greg
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#2
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If you are talking about the brake cleaner sold in aerosol form, it is a very good degreaser for surfaces but I don't know how good it would be for oil/grease soaked into brake linings. It also makes a superb wasp killer, but so far hasn't killed any other inhabitants of the Hammond barn. In past, I cleaned a set of M135 brake linings to what I considered an acceptable standard using lacquer thinner followed by alcohol (methyl hydrate). After cleaning, the linings didn't seem oily and were inspected several times after use to see if heat cycling was causing oil to leach out and be cooked to a glaze on the suface of the linings. Since the linings kept looking good, I kept using them. I may have been lucky in having linings that weren't fully soaked in oil. The choice of solvents came from what I had available and what I thought might be agressive enough to do the job without leaving residue.
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#3
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There are two grades of brake cleen available: the old red can which had carbon tettrachloroethelyne (or some near form to it), and the newer green can which contains mostly alcohol and is touted as environmentally friendly.
One guess which one works better. We used to go through the old stuff by the case back in my military days. Once we went over to the green cans, it wasn't as popular. When I had real oil soaked brake linings to clean, I would usually start by washing them in the solvent bath, then a couple good soakings with alcohol, and finally the brake clean. A sanding in between each soaking got rid of the oil which was brought to the surface. Of course, the normal precautions apply, since you will likely be sanding asbestos, so a reasonable dust mask should be worn. Back in the old days, a set of brake shoes was worth about $20, and brake clean was worth $4 a can, so the difference wasn't so great. Last time I relined my carrier shoes, it cost me around $150 if I recall, so if cleaning is an option over relining, then cleaning is the way to go. |
#4
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tony,
I've come across this problem quite a few times .. I've used auto paint thinners for years and it works very effectively . Soak the linings in the thinners for a few hours and wipe clean . Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#5
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Hi Tony - had exactly the same problem with Phoenix. I asked my brake bloke and he said they were stuffed, nothing you can do. I just had new pads bonded to the shoes. When you think of brakes think of the insurance problems you may have if you don't do it properly. Remember Murphy.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
#6
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G'day Bob,
Just back from Barnawatha, My C60S is in bad need of new linings and seals. How much did they charge you for the new bonded linings? BTW the Humber looks good. Rick Anyone got any seals for a C60S front end out there????
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1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member. |
#7
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Hi Rick - just looking at the invoice, it cost $143 inc. for a set of bonded brake shoe set. Wheel cylinders per pair, re-sleeved, was $229.90.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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