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  #1  
Old 19-10-08, 03:41
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default C8 engine question?

Hello all,
Had the time today to tear into the C8 and make it closer to being ready for the sandblaster late next week. Have found absolutely no rust-through anywhere, and things came apart without too much problem.
I will say, however, that the engineer who decided on using all of the flat head screws on the floor and interior panels should have been beaten severely!
The boss on the right side of the engine behind the distributor, where the number I think should normally be, is blank. On CMP engines, are they located somewhere else or is this more likely a replacement?
Thanks, David
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  #2  
Old 19-10-08, 03:50
Mike K's Avatar
Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default engine

Hi David

I think maybe you have a replacement engine. On the early C8's, the engine doesn't have a crankcase fume re-cirulating system. Instead, it has the tube that sits in the airstream , it suck out the fumes.

Yes, those flat head screws are a pain, I had to drill them out .

Mike
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  #3  
Old 19-10-08, 06:01
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David:
My F8 also had all those flathead screws in the floor. We used a manual impact screw driver to get most of them out. When all was done I think we were able to save only about a half dozen!

Regards,
Jim
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  #4  
Old 19-10-08, 06:33
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Thanks Mike and Jim for the replies!
Mike, turns out the engine is stuck anyway. Have a good running 216 and 235 hydraulic lifter engine here, so have options.
Got every one of the screws out but one using the old "heat and quench" method. Heat to just a glow then soak with water. Does something to the rust. Could almost screw them off by hand after. Nasty work, though.
Had a torch in one hand and a garden hose sprayer in the other for most of the afternoon.
Thanks, David
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  #5  
Old 19-10-08, 15:36
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default No Numbers on two of my engines

Quote:
Originally Posted by David DeWeese View Post
Hello all,
Had the time today to tear into the C8 and make it closer to being ready for the sandblaster late next week. Have found absolutely no rust-through anywhere, and things came apart without too much problem.
I will say, however, that the engineer who decided on using all of the flat head screws on the floor and interior panels should have been beaten severely!
The boss on the right side of the engine behind the distributor, where the number I think should normally be, is blank. On CMP engines, are they located somewhere else or is this more likely a replacement?
Thanks, David
Hi David

Under the side valve cover just infront to the distributor you may find and engine number this is the second location for stamping the block.

Take a look at this thread for a picture http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/sh...=number&page=8

Cheers Phil
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  #6  
Old 22-10-08, 03:43
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Thank You Phil for the information!
Scraped the block in the second location and came up with nothing, so I guess it is a replacement. Just as well since I would like to stay away from the cast iron pistons and babbitted rods on the 216.
Have a 235 full pressure engine with hydraulic lifter from a '57 car that seems a good candidate for the truck. Runs great, but will do a quick rebuild on it before installation. Want to do it right the first time, as it looks like a beast to change out the motor.
Any pitfalls with using the 235?
Thanks, David
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  #7  
Old 22-10-08, 09:50
Richard Coutts-Smith Richard Coutts-Smith is offline
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David,
I have just put in a 235 in my C60s. Went in quite easily, spent a bit of time making a new hand throttle bracket to mount around the waterpump as the original does not fit, and a lot more time getting the original bellhousing to line up properly on the block. I have heard of problems with the length oh the shaft on the waterpump (too long) but mine was fine.
My only problem was not knowing about "plastigauges" when doing the big ends. After my first test drive I could here a knock under load, turns out I have 4thou clearance on one bigend. Talk about learning the hard way...
Sure if you do a search for 235's in this forum you will find a few comments about them.
Goodluck
Rich
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  #8  
Old 17-11-08, 03:12
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default The fun begins!

Got the C8 back from the sandblaster last week, and luckily had only a few minor spots of rust-through show up in the sheetmetal. I did try for a few hours to retrieve any original markings through the many coats of paint before it went, but the thick brush-applied top coats of red made it virtually impossible. Did notice today a steel manufacturers mark on the rear cab section after it returned blasted.
Have major issues now in the drivetrain, though, as the transmission case is busted. About 1/2 of the casting that constitutes the ball fitting for the torque tube on the transmission is also missing.
Thought the rear end looked odd in that the rear wheels had a lot of negative camber. Turns out that the rear axle housing is bent beyond reasonable repair. Plus the U bolts on the aftermarket overload springs that were installed wore completely through the axle housing! Someone beat this truck like a mule.
Having found all of this, I will not be discouraged, but my wallet is thin! Did a lot of soul-searching on this, but here's what worked out for me:
PURISTS MAY WANT TO COVER THEIR EYES NOW!
Engine was going to be replaced with a 235 anyway. Have a nice four-speed top-loader from a '41 1.5 ton Chev G506 here for a while from a previous conversion project. Have a rear axle assembly here from a six lug '90 model Chev Blazer 4x4 that will fit perfectly according to measurements.
This will give me a good engine and transmission, open driveshaft, and a rear end with decent gears that will still accept the C8 wheel adapters and wheels.
I am now ready to accept my punishment!
Thanks, David
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  #9  
Old 17-11-08, 05:06
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Jim Price Jim Price is offline
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David:
Be of strong heart! If your wallet is thin now, you ain't seen nuthin' yet! Just remember that the best rationale for what you spend if that you're saving a piece of history, something few people are in a position to do.

Regards,
Jim
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  #10  
Old 17-11-08, 06:03
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camber for high speed cornering (very low speed cornering more like)
someone must have tried to use it as a 30cwt instead of 8cwt to bend diff housing
With the intended combo it should pick your top speed well past the usual 40mph mark
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  #11  
Old 18-11-08, 02:47
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Thanks for the replies!
These modification were certainly not in mind when I originally received the truck, but all are reversible in the future if correct parts do come around. My front axle assembly had also been changed from original, so wasn't starting with a pristine truck to begin with. I am still absolutely thrilled to own it, and am looking foreward very much to restoring it!
Another cab back panel came with the C8 that was in much better shape than the original. I planned on using it until I noticed a difference on the upper section where the roof assembly would be bolted. The top angle had what appears to be indentions for the seat backs, where the original did not. Is this a cab 11/12 difference, or a Chev/Ford thing?
Thanks, David
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  #12  
Old 18-11-08, 03:09
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Barry Churcher Barry Churcher is online now
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Dave, just do what you have to do to "get er done". You have a good choice for a rear axle and the Chevy tranny should work okay. As for the purists I think they can appreciate the work you will have had to do just to restore the truck. Anyway a lot of the purists are old and can't get up if they get down to look underneath.
Barry
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  #13  
Old 18-11-08, 06:45
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David there is a difference in the 11 and 12 back panels and is as you have mentioned the rebate for the seats
not hard to notch the 11 cab one to suit the 12
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  #14  
Old 18-11-08, 16:46
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Default Hold up!

Before you proceed any further Dave, a MLUer from Manitoba, Bill MacKenzie had the complete frame and running gear, sans body for a C15A for sale. If you're interested, I can dig up my emails to him and see if he still has it. Derek.
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  #15  
Old 18-11-08, 22:59
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Derek, the C15A and C8 frames are quite different. The 4x4s have a wider frame at the rear and the rear ends are different too.
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  #16  
Old 19-11-08, 02:50
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Derek, I really appreciate the offer to check on the chassis in my behalf. Although there is going to be some major mechanical changes from stock on this truck, they may turn out to be for the better in the end. The truck will still look the same to the casual observer, but with the higher revving engine and rear axle with higher gear ratio, I could actually drive the truck instead of trailering it.
Have finally acquired another 13" 8cwt wheel I needed, so now I have four if Wally Wade ever gets around to making 9.00x13" tires. If he doesn't, I have also secured a set of 15" aftermarket wheels that fit the 8cwt bolt pattern. Several interesting tires made in that size.
Either way, the C8 will remain a C8, (with some differences).
Thanks, David

Last edited by David DeWeese; 19-11-08 at 15:04.
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  #17  
Old 19-11-08, 02:59
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Jim Price Jim Price is offline
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Default 15" aftermarket wheels that fit the 8cwt bolt pattern

David:
What are these rims from? Where do I find them?

Thanks,
Jim
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  #18  
Old 19-11-08, 03:24
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Hello Jim,
PM sent.
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  #19  
Old 28-12-08, 03:40
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Default C8 parking brake linkage

Hi all,
Does anyone have a photo of what the parking brake linkage is supposed to look like on a Cab 11 C8 from the cables to the lever? Here's what I have now.
Thanks, David
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  #20  
Old 28-12-08, 04:36
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sorry about poor quality couldnt get a decent shot from floor level
first = where linkages attach
second = linkage between actuator and cable ends
third = front linkage between hand brake lever and actuator
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  #21  
Old 28-12-08, 04:58
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I think this is what you are after
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  #22  
Old 28-12-08, 05:10
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Andrew,
Thank you very much for the photos! Is all your linkages solid rods, or are there cables involved?
Thanks, David
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  #23  
Old 28-12-08, 05:17
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Both the ones i have
All solid adjustable rods from hand brake lever to actuator assembly ,then assembly to point where it attaches to the final flexible handbrake cable near front of the rear springs
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  #24  
Old 28-12-08, 05:32
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The emergency brake linkage has this cross shaft mounted on the fuel tank bracket. There's a rod that goes ahead to the lever and the cables go back to the rear brakes. If you want I'll take a few better pix.
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  #25  
Old 28-12-08, 05:40
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Thank you, David!
Looks like someone has gutted my original parking brake linkage for an "improved" version.
All photos very welcome!
Thanks, David
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  #26  
Old 31-12-08, 04:00
David DeWeese David DeWeese is offline
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Pulled out my fuel tank brackets that came with the truck today. They had been shortened to mount one tank under the 2B1 bed that was installed when I got it.
Enlarged all of the photos posted,(thanks again), and got my head around the linkage layout.
Was the linkage mountings welded directly to the front fuel tank bracket? Neither of my brackets have any evidence of anything being cut off. The frame doesn't have the mounting holes circled in David's photo. Am I missing something else?
Pulled out a 4-speed synchronized transmission today from a '57 Chev truck being sent to the scrapper. Figured if I was going to 'pimp my ride' with a later model 235 and high speed rear axle, might as well go all the way!
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