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#1
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Some background and ideas here for 'hotting up' your Ford
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Flathead_engine Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#2
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Hi Brenton, Here's the answer. Get one of those tank mechanics to look at it for you.
Colin. ![]() |
#3
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they are all civilian contractors, they all work for Tenix.
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Brenton Shevlin Darwin NT Australia LP2A Carrier 5004 SA Railways Islington |
#4
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Hello,
I had a very similar problem with a 1934 Ford car I restored last year in that the replacement fuel pump would not suck a drop of fuel out of the tank. Clean tank and fuel lines. Drove me crazy until I found the culprit. The reproduction pump had a cork gasket installed that allowed just enough vacuum to slip by to keep the pump from working properly. Replaced the cork gasket with a rubber one and problem solved! May be not your problem, but might be something to look for. Thanks, David |
#5
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i have discovered that the push rod for pump is not working properly how do i go about fixing this ?
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Brenton Shevlin Darwin NT Australia LP2A Carrier 5004 SA Railways Islington |
#6
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I already explained the push rod fix in this thread.. here it is again..You do not say what the problem with the push rod is but I can guess that it is worn...like most flat head Ford fuel pump rods.. This was a common problem with the old flat heads..I used to braze a layer of brass on top of the push rod..it dosen't take much..an extra 35 to 40 thousands of brass on the push rod will make all the difference in the world..a air leak on the suction side of the pump is another possibility..as previously mentioned.
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#7
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Alex is correct about the fuel push rod wearing and not making a full stroke. This was a very common problem with FORD V8s as a kid playing with hot rods we found that it was more often a problem then not. It would often result in fuel starvation at full throttle. It was very common to find push rods had already had the treatment before. We would generally fix the problem by brazing as Alex suggests. However we also generally added an electric fuel pump back by the tank on a separate switch but hooked to the ignition so that the fuel system could be primed without having to crank the engine to get fuel to the carb. Makes a big difference on starting, also helps cure vapor lock as well because the pump down by the tank can push the vapor bubbles through when the mechanical pump is not able to clear them. The reason for the separate switch was because it was hard then (then as now)to find an electric fuel pump with the lower pressure range 3-4 psi instead of the 6-8 psi of most electric pumps. The higher pressure is great from priming or clearing vapor lock but can cause flooding.
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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