Humber FV1611(A)

[FV1611A]

I have now managed to collect some salvaged and NOS panels for some of the lockers to fabricate replacements in due course thanks to Clive, Ashley and Alison.

Makes life a little easier for copying and the like.

Regards

[FV1611A]

I also have 2 same pattern NOS inner wheel arch panels that will assist further together with a full length side locker cover / lid.....All Helps!

[FV1611A]

I have now move my Humber to a more ideal secure location where she can remain safe and workable....

Images of move and other matters attached.......There is a belief that this FV1611aas in a fil or TV series and hence the decals on the doors, which I have now discovered the words?????? CONTROL....In the UK someone suggested Doctor Who, which whilst totally amazing if cannot be collaborated right now!?



















A small selection of Abstract Images......

[FV1611A]

I do not know the age of the tyres, but guess that the coating of tyrewall paint has preserved them further. The old tyre paint is now starting to flake, but as long as those sidewalls stay intact I will be happy as all 4 edges are Dunlop Trach Edge and Original fitment..........GOD Only knows if they are Original, Original........But after 1959 thats a big Guess

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

Nice to see the under bonnet pictures. Appears to be not a lot different from the original One Ton, apart from the revised air cleaner orientation, and the improved exhaust manifold.
Given the radical change in looks and role, I was illogically surprised by the typical Humber underneath.
Is she a runner and a stopper? Or are you concentrating on the externals?
I take it that the canvas gaiters are not an original fitment?
Rich.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Another TV series that comes to mind that memory says they used one in was the Avengers.

Memory also says that it might have been in one of the Tom Baker Dr. Who episodes.

Now everyone has an excuse to watch old TV series, which may actually be better that what is being offered now.

Cheers Phil

[fv1620]

Originally Posted by FV1611A

I do not know the age of the tyres, but guess that the coating of tyrewall paint has preserved them further. The old tyre paint is now starting to flake, but as long as those sidewalls stay intact I will be happy as all 4 edges are Dunlop Trach Edge and Original fitment..........GOD Only knows if they are Original, Original........But after 1959 thats a big Guess

Wayne have you got close ups of the other tyres?

Original Mk 1 tyres were marked "RF HS" (although the Army got it wrong & said it was HS RF)

I think yours is marked "L" which is acceptable on a Mk 2 which may mean it is a later tyre. The other tyre type which I think must be a later type & was extensively used on Mk 2 was marked "RF EXTRA REINFORCED". Tyre types should not be mixed on the same axle. If there are REINFORCED tyres they should be fitted to the rear axle.

BTW on a Mk 1 your fronts should be 25psi & rear 40psi. Kicking the tyres is no guide to pressure. I have driven on 0psi, although the steering was a bit peculiar

[FV1611A]

Clive I have no idea and will check as I am visiting her next week and doing some work and will take more pictures as well.

Torque reaction brackets and all that.....also I wish to see what lies in those floor lockers incase it is something of interest....Might as well whilst I am there.

As explained on the HMVF forum I will be seeing if she wishes to turn over in a very controlled and sensitive way, so as to respect she has been stood for some time.........

More pictures to follow in due course after visit next week and a sharing the knowledge visit to Clive........

No idea on TV or Film debute but was in Grey with Shields on Doors saying...'Something' CONTROL??? Also some kind of Tressle or Castlement Icon in Black behind shield????????????????

Makes me think more like a Bank Truck...Brinks Matt type thing, but Guessing Big Time!




Tyres and text visible to date







Rear Locker items stowed inside not known yet!?





Proper Tracta Joint Bellows in Rubber on Rear.....Leather Bogus on front and suspect Grease Packed

[fv1620]

At least with the rear locker you can put you hand up & have feel around.

But if you take the floor up you will need your Irwin extractors & most of the bolts will snap off unless you spend a lot of time with heat & release oil. But it will be a nice example of how Uncle Irwin can help in a difficult situation.

[FV1611A]

Clive on tyres does T24/C2 mean anything???

I can sort of make that text out but nothing else before visit.

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by fv1620

At least with the rear locker you can put you hand up & have feel around.

But if you take the floor up you will need your Irwin extractors & most of the bolts will snap off unless you spend a lot of time with heat & release oil. But it will be a nice example of how Uncle Irwin can help in a difficult situation.

Oh they haven't arrived yet.........I see the cover plate, but it looks like a box or packaging of some sort in the rearmost one..........

I will have blowtorch and penetrating oil so may be just lucky and work them lose and withdraw cleanly.......It's happened on Lightweight and that has been skinny dipping in Sea etc.............

[fv1620]

Originally Posted by FV1611A

Clive on tyres does T24/C2 mean anything???

Nothing I'm familiar with. Maybe the inner walls will yield more detail where the sun don't shine.

[FV1611A]

You know I will crawl all over the tyre walls to see when I go on Wednesday......Yours the day after..........

So we can share my investigations first hand

[FV1611A]

I have a question about GUNK......Engine Degreaser

If it is not rinsed off properly what does the residue do. Does it keep working to the point of damaging paints / coatings...............

I must say the paintbrush cleaner works well and non-hazardoudsly. (well it was in my case).

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by FV1611A

I have a question about GUNK......Engine Degreaser

If it is not rinsed off properly what does the residue do. Does it keep working to the point of damaging paints / coatings...............

I must say the paintbrush cleaner works well and non-hazardoudsly. (well it was in my case).

Wayne..
One thing that will happen if you don't wash it off then neutralize the surface is that when you do go to refinish it..even after sanding ..it will eat the new surface off..and it will start the minute you put the new surface on..Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for cleaning the surface after use.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Wayne

Gunk and other degreasers containing or mixed with petroleum, must be carefully cleaned off after they have been use on painted surfaces, particularly paint containing flatteners such as military paints. The petroleum likes to hide in the porous surface of the paint or metal. Cast iron is a particular problem. That it leaves a oily residue may not be all bad though if you don't plan to paint right away.

As suggested following the instructions would be a good idea, but maybe hard to do as the most recent jug of the traditional Gunk I purchase doesn't make any reference to cleaning surfaces for painting, nor could I find it on their web site. (Alex, I think you are right the instructions were there at one time.)

I still use Gunk because it's still one of the most effective ways of dealing with grease and dirt mixed together, short of steam cleaning.

Temperature and heat of the rinse water are the keys to the process below about 70F cleaning is slow to non existent. Rinsing with cold water seems to have a very limited effect may get the lumps of grease off but will leave oily residue. I use a biodegradable degreaser after washing off the Gunk solution. The hotter the water you use the better. Then before painting use Prepsol or another painting prep product. Once you have done all this to a bare piece of steel it will rust in a matter of days.

Cheers and happy parts cleaning Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress.

As to Gunk- Just for laughs just went back on their web site and asked their tech person - Dr. Gunk - Where would I find information about cleaning surfaces for painting after using Gunk degreaser? It will be interesting to see what I get as a response.

Cheers Phil

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress.

As to Gunk- Just for laughs just went back on their web site and asked their tech person - Dr. Gunk - Where would I find information about cleaning surfaces for painting after using Gunk degreaser? It will be interesting to see what I get as a response.

Cheers Phil

Phil thank you for the words of encouragement. I would like to go faster but life pressures and work take rule I guess. I will be with Miss Piggy next week in ernest and will update thread on what I did or didn't achieve. I also hope to see Clive Elliott, all being well to further share the knowledge and be precise. Hopefully.

As a bit of luck after some messaging on HMVF over here I did manage to aquire this wee item, which I am very excited about for the PIGGY.





After lots of rags and penetrating oil / WD40 she cleaned up quite nisely

[FV1611A]

Whats the size of a wheel nut on a Humber Pig.......Also I assume a 6 ton bottle jack is okay under 1 wheel station to remove a wheel.

I know it should be a vehicle overall less than Jack capacity. Wonder what weight dispercement is on each corner??

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

1 1/8 AF socket will fit the Wheel nut. (Left hand thread on the passenger side of course)
Original jack for the cargo Humber was 4 ton, I imagine it would have been the same for the Pig as the loaded weight was similar.

Rich.

[fv1620]

Wayne it takes a bit of getting used to when you first jack up a Humber because of the independent suspension on each wheel station.

If you put the jack under the outer part of the suspension arm as you try to jack up the wheel, it stays put & that side of the rear axle goes down.

If you jack up from the inner arm or diff guard, then as it goes up the wheel station keeps drooping down.

What I do is place a couple of shortened railway sleepers on top of each other under the diff guard, then jack up from the outer part of the suspension arm.

I prefer railways sleepers to a jack or an axle stand is that should there be some movement of the vehicle, it is not going to topple off the jack/axle stand.

I always prefer a screw jack to a hydraulic one if I'm going underneath. Not just because you don't have to worry if the fluid screw is not fully in & it is going down slowly, but generally a decent screw jack will have a broader base than a bottle & less likely to topple.

The Pig CES specifies Jack Screw, Hand lifting, Geared Triple lift, 4 ton, 7 in closed height, 18.5 in extended height, 5120-99-201-4907

I think a couple of years ago I posted a picture on one of the Humber threads on here.

[FV1611A]

Clive thank you. I did wonder how that suspension was going to work with a jack. At least a 6T Bottle Jack is sufficient rating for lifting a wheel!

I note the point on screw against hydraulic.

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Richard Coutts-Smith

1 1/8 AF socket will fit the Wheel nut. (Left hand thread on the passenger side of course)
Original jack for the cargo Humber was 4 ton, I imagine it would have been the same for the Pig as the loaded weight was similar.

Rich.

Thanks Rich

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Wayne

In my post about the Gunk, forgot to mention that I have been reading and following your project with interest. Keep up the good work and please keep us posted on the progress. Cheers Phil

Phil I have a bit to do but I will do my best.

The old girl cranked over the other day and spun freely.

No fuel but allowed some lubrication to moisten the veins in her heart.

The next day I had a good tutorial with Clive that made more sense as I am getting more aware of Humber facts instead of Land Rover.

Few jobs next time may be gravity fed fuel delivery after the re-install of plugs blast cleaned by Clives friend 'Wally'. Nice piece of kit .

I need to remove, inspect and replace as required fuel filter. Drop old fuel that is circa 10 years old and flush tanks through. At least fuel is liquid and not varnish! The carb will be given a good health check and overall too. Probably refurbished before fitting.

I also want to splash some rust protectant paint on a few patches to prevent any damage short term damage using Deproma! Good product

[fv1620]

Originally Posted by FV1611A

Clive thank you. I did wonder how that suspension was going to work with a jack. At least a 6T Bottle Jack is sufficient rating for lifting a wheel!

Depending on the settings of the torsion bar, the centre of the wheel has the potential to be up to 4" below or 4" above the axis of the main axle. So there is plenty of travel. If you want to see it on maximum droop see the picture in Pig in a Poke

In case anyone wonders who my friend Wally is, it is the brand name of an Italian compressed air sparking plug cleaner I use.

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by fv1620

Pig in a Poke

Just searched on MLU and NIL return. Where should I look...Forum or www.

Thanks

Wayne

[fv1620]

Wayne on here: http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/PIGINAPOKE.pdf

[FV1611A]

Thank you. That is some articulation in that picture!

[FV1611A]

Saw Piggy on 28th March and noticed a few things, but did take two batteries and connected up. Got an ignition panel light and she turned over................





Isolated the fuel as what was in one tank smelt like old gloss paint in a tin???? The fuel filter was fuel of old fuel, but no filter?



I had identified something in the rear storage locker under floor that transpired to be these items.















Lots of other images taken to follow;

[FV1611A]

Removing an awful lot of Gunge and it was evident that a historic custodian (Not PO) had painted some parts in the engine bay in DBG as I guess he didn't want to buy some SKy Blue?





The internal relay and switches cover identified a couple of non standard alterations?



Internal controls and wiring