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#1
07-08-07, 06:08
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1943 F15A restoration
Hi to everyone ,
i decided to start a new thread with the actual resoration work as my other thread has turned into a research thread . Other Thread Well the work has started i decided that the first thing that needs to come off is the roof. That stopped me pretty quick , how do you get the rusted flathead screws out ??? .... so while i thought about that i decided to remove the sunshine roof patches .   10 minutes later job done after that i removed the Drivers seat and cleaned up the interior .    Looks like all the floor plates are there and should be reuseable . i did notice that on the rear lower wall where the W braces are the bottom sections are rusted out . These are the Engine covers i have . 
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#2
07-08-07, 14:43
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Temperature guage
Hi James.
Great job on the truck so far..I see the line that goes from the dash to the engine compartment is still intact..It is the line with the protective coil casing around it that runs between the floor pedals ...(It could be your speedometer cable also) If that is your temperature guage sensor line that runs from the temperature guage to your engine block..(I see that the engine is missing but look for that sensor line..They may have taken it out of the block in one piece..)It is a mercury filled sensor bulb and if you are lucky it will be in one piece...with the bulb still intact...DO NOT CUT THIS LINE to remove it..or else ,not withstanding environmentally bad mercury things,that will be the end of the temperature guage...and don't heat it with a torch...that too will destroy it... There is a section in the manuals on the care and feeding of this beast.. Looks good so far.. I see the butt plate holders for the rifles on the floor of the truck and the floor looks in great shape.. Great work..   
__________________
Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: Last edited by Alex Blair (RIP); 07-08-07 at 14:52.
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#4
07-08-07, 16:09
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Re: Temperature guage
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#5
23-08-07, 05:55
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Well i have been busy so heres some updates .
I removed the roof after much swearing at the flush mount screws on the front of the cab .  Then i cut out the welded in sheet metal on the sunshine roof .  And removed the headlights ready for removing the nose   Then i went and picked up some of the other original parts for the truck that have surfaced . Radiator, Front Grille and rusted Passenger side door .  
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#8
23-08-07, 06:11
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Then it was off for a quick 400 kay round trip to horsham to pick up a motor soon as i got it home i did a quick check and its
3 3/16ths bore and so far the numbers tell me its a 1942 motor but the heads are mismatched one is from a truck the other is from a bus but they both look the same so go figure . Anyway got it home and started stripping it down . 60 years of bad filtration .  Heads are off .   Flywheel and clutch and water pumps .  All the bolts and nuts are kept and labelled .  Pistons are out .  Next it was time for the crank .  My little work area near the heater .  I must say the crank is a heavy son of a b%$#h Cheers Plushy
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#9
30-08-07, 13:25
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Can anyone tell me the best way to knock out dints in the Cab panel work ? i have been having small sucess with knocking out the dints with a 10 pound hammer . Is there a better way ??
cheers Plushy
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#10
30-08-07, 15:50
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Dry Ice
__________________
Mike Calnan Ubique! ("Everywhere", the sole Battle Honour of the Royal Regiment of Canadian Artillery) www.calnan.com/swords
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#11
30-08-07, 16:15
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Quote:
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#12
30-08-07, 17:11
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Thanks for the Info Tony i thought i might have misidentified the heads .
 Mike looks like and interesting technique but someone mentions below the video that it doesnt work on large Dints 
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#13
31-08-07, 22:48
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Large dints
Thats when you have to start using a dolly and a hammer... a good panel basher can do amazing things... I'm mediocre at best but would happily fly over to Oz on your ticket to give it a 'bash'!
 Ask at an old established garage and they'll be able to recommend a good panel basher who may even do the work for beer and a local newspaper article to drum up business. If you go at it yourself practice on some old scrap parts first... remember to put the dolly on the peak of the hill and use the hammer on the other side. Work in circles!  Mike
__________________
Mike Calnan Ubique! ("Everywhere", the sole Battle Honour of the Royal Regiment of Canadian Artillery) www.calnan.com/swords
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#14
01-09-07, 03:39
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V8 valve guides
Did you succeed in getting the old valve guides out? Mine were welded in real good!
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#15
01-09-07, 03:59
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Thanks for the suggestion Mike i have a set of hammers and dollys for panel beating but the thickness of the panel is making it hard to make any progress .
David the first few valve`s were a pain in the butt but after awhile i worked it out and with a bit of persuasion [the hammer] they came out . I started by removing the bottom retaining clip first then pushed all the valves right up the i used a long thin punch and a brass hammer to knock the guides down a bit so i could remove the crows foot clip at the top then used my home made valve removal tool too push the spring ,valve,guides out as one unit . 
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#16
02-09-07, 03:55
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Quote:
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#17
02-09-07, 04:00
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Nice Sunshine Cab available up this way for sale. Tin sheet has been screwed over the opening, so all the support metal is still in place around the edge:
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#18
02-09-07, 04:03
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Teaser:
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#20
05-09-07, 13:16
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More Progress on the Blitz i now have the cab almost totally disassembled . The Floor screws are the hardest thing i have had to deal with so far .
    and Keith was right i found the engine number on the Gearbox today and it is 3G43136F 
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#21
05-09-07, 14:03
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Heated work area
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#22
05-09-07, 15:18
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Civvy parts, i work for a large Food company in Distribution so its easy to get parts from trucks in this case 3 x 20 inch rims welded together to make a shed heater . You might have heard of the company i work for its McCains Foods
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#23
14-09-07, 16:21
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Quote:
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#25
14-09-07, 16:28
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All the tie downs are in place:
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#26
14-09-07, 16:30
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Cab is square and straight:
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#27
14-09-07, 16:33
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Quote:
 (*Gets up, walks out with camera...*)James, PM Me with your E-mail or Phone No and I'll get the owner to contact you direct.
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#28
15-09-07, 03:57
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plushy have you found a panel beater?
if you want the truck in top order when finished i would suggest get a tradesman to do your roof, otherwise if you are not fussed do have ago yourself,just remember you see both sides of a panel on these trucks,now if you were just down the road,i would do the job for you! look forward to your progress updates cheers.
__________________
kenney
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#29
26-09-07, 12:46
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Hi Ken sorry for the Slow reply ,
I will be doing the panel beating myself as i do most of my rally car panel beating so this should hopefully not be too much harder . Here`s the current stage of progress .      I am currently rebuilding the rear brakes and i have managed to get a whole new set of timken bearings for the wheels and steering box via my father [who used to work for them] for free !. . Then it will be time to tape up anything not to be sandblasted then wheel it outside and sandblast ready for paint . Cheers Plushy
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