How to remove a cab 13?

[DaveBuckle]

Hello all - have recently procured an excellent cab for my new C15A project. However: it is 5 hrs from me in central west NSW and is still attached to its C30 chassis.
I was considering a cut behind the fuel tanks to take just front half on a car trailer but am still looking at 2 tonnes and what I calculate is 2.2m width from outside of front wheel studs (no tyres so will sit low on trailer).
There is a crane on the farm so I may attempt to just get the cab on to the trailer and carry doors, windscreens, side steps etc. in back of ute.
Main thing is: how do I deal with the steering wheel/column when lifting a cab off?
Any ideas, previous experiences would be much appreciated.

[Mike Cecil]

From memory ...

(1) remove steering wheel and disconnect steering column bracket (below dash), loosen steering box bolts.
(2) remove pedal tops (not arms).
(3) remove pedal surround from floor
(4) remove engine covers
(5) remove both sections of the mud guards (or they get bent when sitting on your trailer, and it reduces the width)
(6) detach wiring, acc. link, & fuel lines (from centre fuel cock).
(7) Remove frame bolts from cab mounts.
(8) Lift off cab. (or Roll cab backwards onto a pallet sitting on the frame - I didn't have a crane for my first F15 cab removal, but it might be a bit more difficult with a C30 due to the extra levers, etc)

Those with more recent experience ... what have I missed? (Sound's so easy, doesn't it??)

Mike

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Dave,

Further to Mike's comments, see the thread How to reassemble a Ford F15. It may have some useful information - if you read it in reverse

HTH,
Hanno

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

Sorry I could not resist.

Copy of 261 engine 10-27-06 013.jpg

But it actually worked to move the cab and engine into the shop to remove the engine, a 261 that is now in my C60S. Chained the truck chassis to the towing eyes on the bumper of the HUP and drove it into the shop.

Yes, you can remove the cab complete with steering column, but be very sure to slide assembly up into the cab and secure it very well so that you have no risk of bending the shaft. The risk is bending or breaking at the instrument panel bracket. Obviously you also want to be very careful that the wheel or arm are not turned quickly so as to hit the end of travel. As I remember there are no stops so all the strain goes to the recycling balls in the steering box which can be damage easily.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Mike Cecil

From memory ...

(2) remove pedal tops (not arms).

Those with more recent experience ... what have I missed?

Were Australian Chevs different than Canadian? All Canadian Chevrolet CMP that I've met had the pedal tops in a unit with the arms. (But some of the very early units had rubber pedal pads as well.)

[DaveBuckle]

C15 Cab1.jpg C15 Cab2.jpg

Thanks for those responses - here is pix of the offender ...
1) is the front axle and or wheels original?
2) So can the cab be safely transported on its back - say on a piece of carpet, or am I likely to damage it under its own weight etc.?

[Grant Bowker]

Please take my answers as Canadian, not 100% applicable to the Australian situation.
If you have access to the whole truck, not just the cab, don't let the remaining parts go to waste after you take the cab.
The fuel tanks look worth saving. Even if they are useless for fuel and beyond repair, the filler neck and other parts should be saved to permit recreation of new tanks.
In Canada, I would say the wheels were non-original but I believe in Australian service tippers used a similar looking wheel when fitted with dual rear wheels. The transfer case shows a PTO which is consistent with the tipper idea or might be for a winch, what can you learn from the rear of the frame.
From what I can see, the front axle appears typically CMP.
The bumper could probably be straightened in a press, the brush guard could be used as-is or straightened, the tow ring on the bumper often gets left off when people remove and reinstall the bumper.
In short, the list of potentially useful parts never ends so if you don't need or want the whole truck or don't have the means to move it, please let others know how to get hold of parts they might need. If you have the truck sitting, you will be amazed how useful it is as a reference or parts source. Once it has gone to the crusher, it is truly gone - forever.

[DaveBuckle]

Canada.jpg Holden.jpg
Thanks Grant - I have the front bars sorted and will be taking tanks and steps.
The rear of chassis has been heavily butchered over the years, so my conscience is clear there.
The motor is seized but I will take radiator and most engine bolt-ons.
If any forum members want any driveline, suspension etc. components let me know - its all paid for - I just want cab, tanks, steps.
While we are talking Canada etc. - what's anyone's take on the two plates in pix? - Holden one on engine cover, Canada above dash.
Thanks again for all input, much appreciated.