Suitable coolant / Corrosion inhibitor.

[Lynn Eades]

Hi Guys,
What are the current mainstream thoughts on inhibitor?
Glycol ethylene used to be the only option. Now we have Water wetter, green coolant, red coolant, and unknown numbers of various additives.
I have had my recond. carrier motor running for about 6 months with just plain water in the system. It does not leak, but I need to put some kind of corrosion inhibitor in the system. I have alluminium heads fitted, composite head gaskets, torqued to 35 ft lbs (once) and standard water pump seals.
The antifreeze is unlikely to be required with only the odd light frost in winter.
I don't need any info on the likes of soluble oil.
What's the advice?

[marco]

I have been using the green coolant for many years without any problems with corrosion or water pumps.

Marco

[rob love]

Antifreeze is cheap, and has all the inhibitors and lubricants required. I say use that.

Antifreeze does require to be changed every 5 years or so as it will get corrosive over time. I have dealt with very low mileage vehicles but with very old antifreeze, and the results weren't pretty.

Also, something a little newer is to test and adjust the PH level of your antifreeze. This has been available since the 80s as I recall, and isimportant, especially with the dissimilar metals of aluminum and steel.

[Grant Bowker]

Another advantage of ethylene glycol coolant is that it raises the boiling point if you have any worries about overheating. I don't know the values for an unpressurized system like the CMP's but Prestone (brand name but often used as a generic name for antifreeze) claims 265 degrees F for a 15psi system (50/50 mix).

[Lynn Eades]

Grant, one pound raises boiling point by four degrees F.
So, a 15 pound system has a boiling point 60 degrees F. on top of the std 212 degrees (at sea level)
As it happens Wartime Ford Carrier radiators are good for about 3.5 pounds.
I am running an adapter with a 4 pound cap. So far so good.
I believe there is a water wetter that has a higher boiling point than water. Is that the Prestons you speak of?

Rob. Thanks! I was thinking of you when I posted. I will look into the PH test.
It can be be done with an Ohm meter if I remember correctly.
Can anyone give us a run down on it?

Marco, I was considering the Green or Red, which apparently should not be mixed. Is one better than the other with regards water pump seal lube?

[rob love]

An ohmeter to test PH is a new one on me, but I do believe the PH level and the continuity may be related.

If you google antifreeze PH test, you will find a lot more about the subject. One article mentions that automotive parts stores will sell test strips. Apparently, water is fairly PH neutral at around 7, and AF is around 10. Mixed 50/50, the PH goes to about 8.5. The PH adjustment that the articles mention is to bring it back to around 10. Seems to me with the heavy trucks, we changed the coolant filters, and could adjust the PH through using a differently rated filter.

I have always preferred the common green A/F. My wifes car (an Oldsmobile) requires the yellow stuff called dexcool, and that is touted as long life. It is also relatively expensive.

I would venture to guess that you guys from the Southern Hemisphere don't have a lot of antifreeze experience. Up here it is mandatory.....a night outside with just water and you will crack your engine block.