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#1
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Anyone have some suggestions on how to remove brass brazing? My latest project has had brazing applied in effort to fill in some holes. I'm hoping to be able to remove it to recover the same holes.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Personally I hate brazing. Why fill with a non-ferrous material, when you can fill it with MIG steel. No doubt it has it's place, but personally I have not found it.
Brazing gets right into the pores of the metal. I'll grind away as deep as I can, then I have to live with the splatter as I Mig over top of it. Not ideal, but it's all that I got. Waiting to hear from someone with more knowledge on this subject as well. |
#3
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Being that it is applied to sheet metal, removing it without warping things is difficult. Personally if you can grind away with a sanding disc to reveal the hole, I would just drill out the remainder. Otherwise you can try to reheat the area and hope the brazing material will drop out of the hole.
Back in the day it was the best way to weld up sheet metal over Stick welding and was simple enough Bubba could do it at home with nothing more than a set of torches. It is effective for items like casting etc that need to be rebuilt.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#4
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Chris: Yes, bubba could do it, but at the same time buba always made an irreversible mess. He was, after all, using braze because he couldn't control the heat when he welded.
Personally, I have always preferred steel for steel. If you are decent at the torches, and use the right tip with the right heat, you can usually make it work. If you have access to a MIG, even one of those Canadian tire ones that use common house voltage, you can take all your brazing rods and toss them in the garbage where they belong. |
#5
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So if I were to use a torch, would that work for simply hearing it up until it melted out? I've never brazed before so I'm not sure how it all works.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#6
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Likely not. Brazing it kind of like properly tinned solder....it leeches into the metal. You will get rid of about 80% or more of it by reasonable heating, but you won't get it all. When you try to weld over it with steel, either by gas or by mig, it will spit like water in boiling cooking oil.
Did I mention I hate brazing? |
#7
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Some of the posters here, seem to describe brazing as the work of the devil. I have been hands on in repair work on vehicles and machinery for 49 years, brazing, bronze welding, etc. were all methods taught to me and have used them during my working life where required. There will always be a bodger around who misuses techniques making it harder for the next person to recover a bad repair, but that is life.
Just so some of you can look deeper into the technique, here is a link to a company who supplied products in the UK: http://www.weldability-sif.com/media..._technique.pdf
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#8
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Stuart: Read post #9 and you will see what repairs I am talking about. Pretty sure we have all seen them. Big globs of brass with the flux overheated and now part of the braze. No real strength. As I said in my earliest post: no doubt there are proper uses for brazing, but I haven't found them. Lynn has given some good examples about where braze actually belongs, as have you. But are these the kinds of things the average CMP restorer is doing? Richard, I would suggest your proper use of brazing is the exception and not the rule. Most of the brazing I have been exposed to is not the kind of work anyone should be proud of.
I'll add a shot or two of items at work waiting for repair from the brazing bubbas. |
#9
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Tig weld everything and solve all your alloy metal problems...
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#10
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Previously, I have had to do the same thing.
Thinking back to my trade training days, my instructor always said, 'not too much heat or you will burn the braze and it will not be effective'. So with that in mind, I use too much heat and burn it out at the same time as using a wire brush to pick up most of the molten particles, flicking them out. Wire brush/wire wheel after. I have learnt some info from this thread, from the older hands- thanks
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1943 Ford GPW Jeep "Follow Me" 1943 MBT trailer 1943 Dodge WC-57 Command Car 1943 Chev C60L Army Cargo Truck 1941 LP2 VR 731 Bren Gun Carrier 3" Mortar Carrying Under restoration: 1940 LP1 Bren Gun Carrier 194? 1 Ton Trl Ben Hur 1942 C15A with sunshine cabin MVPA 31338 |
#11
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Easiest way is heat with a torch and brush it with a wire brush the clean it up with a grinding disk
I have used it and removed it and in the right place serves it purpose |
#12
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I ended up just cutting the old repairs out and welding in a new piece.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#13
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New piece almost done being welded in.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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