Morris Commercial Head Stud Removal.

[T Creighton]

Does anyone know of any other methods for removing 70 year old studs?

I have four Morris E H engines in various condition and need to select one for a rebuild as I am making a start on the Morris Commercial C8 project that has been sitting in the “too hard corner" of the shed for nearly 7 years.
I have only just acquired enough parts to get the project going again.
There are only 2 blocks that seem suitable but I will need stuff from at least one of the others.
The engine re conditioner seems to thinks parts should not be too much of a problem but I have to take everything in to him to evaluate. It will be mix and match.
He needs all the studs removed from the block that we will finally use so I am experimenting with the 2 unusable blocks.
I have drilled some using a centering jig and will hopefully clean out the threads with a tap (7/16” x 16 tpi BSF) when I get hold of one.
I have put three runs of arc weld along the length of the exposed stud and then wound them out using pipe tongs with an extended handle and a lot of force, but although this worked on one block, with 7 coming out.
There was a plate on this block with a reconditioning date of April 1954 so these studs would have been replaced then.
On the other block the internal thread was damaged using the welder heating method as the stud thread froze up again halfway out.
Without any heating one stud just snapped off.
I am using the arc welder for heating as I got rid of my gas welding set due to the cost of bottle rental.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Terry.

[Mike K]

Hi Terry

I have the same problem. My Morris Commercial engines , the six cyl. OH types as fitted in the CS8 and PU , have stuck studs . Somebody suggested drilling the studs out and using helicoils to replace the original threads in the block - that sounds a little brutal to me .

I did try a stud remover over one of the studs , after heating the stud , I applied reasonable pressure, but nothing happened .

BTW a friend here had two C8's , they had originally been the 2 pounder portee models . We found another portee C8 in the old Kilmore wreckers many years ago, it had been turned upside down , we heard later on, the whole yard was melted down as scrap . A guy in NSW had two of them as well , in rough cond. I have pics somewhere .

The guy from Norway had many NOS engine parts for the 4 cyl E engines ..don't know what became of it all .Hughes in Sydney road, Melbourne had some engine spares too.My friend with the C8's bought a new complete engine from them .

[Lynn Eades]

Terry, give me a call in the morning.

[Petr Brezina]

Well working method on broken studs is to weld on it a nut. I worked as a last resort on two stuck studs on my flatty.
Give it a good thick weld and I'm sure it will get loose!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Petr

To add to welding on a nut to turn out a broken stud or bolt. I've had good success with this method as well. Couple added steps, once the nut is weld on I like to use an impact wrench with torque turned down to vibrate the bolt. Also I've had much better results with impact over long breaker bars. Vibrate then soak let stand over night and try again. Also had this trick taking several tries when the nut breaks off, amazing how far below the surface of the block you can successfully weld a nut on and remove.

There have been several good past threads on this topic.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

some of those engine studs may actually enter into the water jacket and the end of the stud blooms with rust.

...on particularly tough broken studs I have found that in addition to welding a nut with the Mig..... I let it get cold....... then heat up the cast iron mass with the Oxy -Acet. torches..... removing a broken spring bolt stud from a HUP cast axle takes a lot of external heat.... maybe 5 or 10 minutes of heating with the torches due to the massive heat sink.

I prefer to use a box wrench and vibrate by hand back and forth. If it moves 1/16 either way you have it made. In some odd situation I welded a handle on to the nut before welding the nut on the stud..... makes it easier when doing a tractor engine in situ and the stud is in vertical position.

I have done the same thing on exhaust stud in tractor engines...uses a lot of gas but it works.

Cheers

PS..... not sure how you are making out Phil with the Polar Vortex but we now have 3 to 4 inches of fresh snow on the ground in Ottawa....... I may turn on the house Xmas lights to piss off the neighbours.