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#1
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Hi all
My uncle picked up an old compressor from work that was being thrown away. its a huge tank (60gal.) and the compressor part is a double piston type that turns at 1100rpm. However he said it had a very old electric motor on it that was shot. We'd like to set this up for use on the farm and so that I can sandblast with it. What we were thinking was to use a gas engine instead so that it could be moved around that farm as the need arises. Can anyone suggest what kind of engine and the HP that would be needed, also, how does one hook it up so that the engine throttles down when the air insn't being used. Thanks for any and all help.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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That would require at least a 7.5 HP electric motor or a 10HP gas engine to drive it..an 8HP maybe but you would be better off with something like this,and use the old tank paralleled to it for storage capacity.. Would have to be wired in but on a small trailer and a couple of different plug in points or areas could make a nice unit.. At least with this unit it has all the governors already on it and the whole set up is plug and play.. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...Compressor.jsp
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#3
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Alex, 11.5 cfm @ 90 psi won't run a sandblaster. I have trouble imagining that small an electric motor putting out 7 hp too. One of those heavy 5 hp electrics will run a 20 cfm compressor with no problem but you need a fairly small nozzle in the blaster for it to keep up. I have a 7.5 hp electric on a 35 cfm V4 unit that keeps up with no problem, but one of this size is $3000 at Princess Auto.
An 8 or 10 hp gas engine will replace a 5 hp electric motor and should run almost any normal two cylinder compressor.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#4
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Hi Jordan,
One way might be if you have a tractor with rear PTO and maybe 3 point linkage, you could rig the compressor to drive off the PTO via a standard drive shaft. That way it could be disconnected when the tractor is required elsewhere. Diesel tractor for economy. Have the tractor upwind so it doesn't ingest the dust. The tractor would barely work with such a small compressor. Maybe find a bigger compressor unit and reuse the 60gal air receiver? The bigger the air receiver the more pumping to fill it and keep it up. But the bigger the receiver the more chance the air has to: a) cool down, which also b) causes more moisture to condense out of the air. which means dryer, cooler air for blasting which allows better efficiency and a better result. Regarding idling when tank is full - I had to repair the pressure switch on my fairly small cheapo electric direct drive compressor as it was leaking air and I found it had a bit of sheet rubber as a diaphram that tank pressure caused to push against a simple broad faced piston that in turn was restrained by a coil sping with an adjuster nut. (The leak was a split in the rubber so I replaced it with a square cut from a truck inner tube) The spring restricts the travel of the piston which operates mechanical arms to an electric contact switch thus cutting off the 240V AC supply to the motor. As the pressure in the tank drops the piston moves back and the switch gets reset restarting the electric motor. Maybe that action offers some ideas. Bear in mind that AC switch contacts may get burned away quicker under DC usage. Maybe the piston could push on an oil filled tube that works another piston at the other end... Taking that idea further, I know a chap who years ago was involved in building a ground glider tug from Staghound bits. He told me that the winch was able to pivot toward the tow and thus pushed the actuating rod of a brake or clutch hydraulic master cylinder that fed direct to a fluid pressure guage on the dash that he had recalibrated into load readings so they wouldn't snap the towline. Regards Alex McDougall Last edited by cantankrs; 19-11-09 at 10:54. Reason: Added more - OMG No!! |
#5
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And an intercooler between tanks should keep the final air quite dry..Don't forget to pipe your product air(Intake)to a clean source of supply..away from the contaminated area.. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#6
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Princess auto sells the unloader valves which also have a bowden cable which will go to the gas/diesel engines throttle. It will put the engine to idle and exhaust any air the compressor builds after a predetermined point is reached, then it will put the engine back to full rpm when the min pressure is reached. Check out any of the wheel barrow type portable compressors at princess and they will have this on them.
Look for one of the kohler or wisconsin engines on the end of grain augers. The augers often sell at auction for rediculously low prices (often $35 to 50, but I have seen them go for $5). You may have to tinker a bit with the pulley sizes to get the proper rpm on the compressor head. |
#7
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Thanks for the replies, We will take a look for one of those auger engines. That sounds like the best way. I saw those partst listed on the Pincess Auto web site.
Will let my uncle know about it all.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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