Army Motors article:
I found the painting article . It is interesting reading .
Quote:
PAINTING AND MARKINGS WW-II
BY B. J. SUNDERLIN AND R. W. PELOUZE
For the collector of World War II-era vehicles, the unique finish coat has caused no end of problems, beyond those of just durability. For the restorer of any other kind of vehicle, one can go to just about any paint supplier and get the exact (or very close) color that was originally used. The military enthusiast, however, quickly finds that 'Synthetic Enamel Lusterless. Olive Drab' does not exist in the commercial marketplace. The color does, but the flat finish doesn't.
As mentioned earlier, due to all the problems inherent with the original Lusterless finish, except for special applications, the Army hasn't even seriously fiddled with it since 1945. So, if our hero wanted the authentic World War II finish, his only hope would be the chance of finding some surplus O.D., checking out oddball specialist finishes—like canvas canoe paint, etc.—or making it himself.
On the other hand, he could rationalize the whole thing and finish the truck off in a gloss or semi-gloss. After all, there are several commercial full-gloss or semi-gloss Olive Greens that look good color wise and are locally available in everything from the old-style Nitro-cellulose Lacquers to exotic polyurethane aircraft finishes (i.e., Ditzler DQE, BAR, and DAI #43827 Olive Green). Commercially, the only original World War II Olive Green Synthetic Enamel that is still available over the counter is the late semi-gloss O.D. that Dodge used— Ditzler DQE-41055.
If one looks into the surplus paint route, it is more fraught with pitfalls than J. C. Whitney replacement parts. Most of this surplus paint is awfully over-aged or probably didn't meet the original specs anyway. All paint makers agree: paint does have a limited shelf-life. And at best that's about five years. After that, the pigments and other solids (flatteners) have settled out by specific gravity so completely that they'll never mix back together again. That, coupled with the fact that the various resins and binders will eventually start to oxidize from age alone. After so long in the can, it just isn't good anymore—even if it has never been opened, and was only a dollar for five gallons. Old paint is like old gasoline – it doesn't improve with age.
Fortunately, for the true enthusiast who won't settle for anything less than the original type finish, it is now available. For the past couple of years, the New Jersey Chapter of the MVCC, in conjunction with Randolph Products, has been selling freshly made to original specs lusterless Olive Drab synthetic enamel. This is a very high-quality product that is compatible with other commercial synthetic finishes (DuPont and Ditzler reducers, etc.) and perfectly duplicates the texture and all the shortcomings of the original paint. For the perfectionist, an MB or Dodge WC only looks right with the original fuzzy finish, complete with all its hand-prints, oil stains and scratches.
The reproduced shade is a good average Olive Drab that should satisfy all but the most rabid purist. It seems that we collectors are much more demanding for exact conformation to shade, chroma, and hue than the U.S. Army ever was, or is today. Anyone who was in the service will recall that it seemed that no two cans of Forest Green, Strato Blue, Haze Grey, or Olive Drab were ever quite the same. During the war, it was even more so. Remember, this was an era before Federal Standard 585 and a time of wide-spread material shortages—including paint pigments and solvents
Back then, as today, each vehicle maker had his favorite paint supplier, be it Ditzler, DuPont, Acme, MM, etc., and. each, it seems, his favorite shade of Olive Drat, just as a Red Chevy sedan is a different shade than a Red Ford sedan. For example, both the GMC and the Studebaker 2 1/2 ton 6x6's were painted with DuPont DuLux enamels. But both used a different formula. And so it was with other manufacturers.
To muddy the waters still further, there is some question whether everything was supposed to be painted the exact same color. The original World War II specification for the Lusterless Olive Drab was Quartermaster Corps Specification ES-474, Panama Pullman Green. However, the 1945 manual for one of these trucks (TM 10-1679, Mack NO) specifies that the correct matching color is Q.M.C. spec. ES-680, Coronada Tan, which doesn't sound at all like ES-474, Olive Drab, or even Panama Pullman Green. To further confuse the matter, throughout the same manual's section on how to repaint the truck, it continually refers to using Lusterless Olive Drab Synthetic Enamel.
The only rational explanation that I can think of for the variation is that the individual manufacturers used slight deviations from the exact specs to ease the demands on a limited supply of some pigments which had to be imported, so everybody wasn't after exactly the same paint formula.
By carefully checking modern paint formula catalogs, one finds that there are several available commercial Greens that would by color match a number of the World War II Olive Greens. Also, there are matches for all the insignia colors, and even the camouflage colors from FM-21—if they were only Lusterless. The old bugaboo of their only coming in a full-gloss limits our interest in them, or so it seems.
If you wanted to use one of the off-shades of O.D., or simply wanted to duplicate some of the more colorful markings, such as used on an ambulance or those of the North African campaign, one will soon find that Olive Drab, White and Flat Black are just about all that is available in the Lusterless range.
For the Ditzler automotive finishes, there is a commercial additive to flatten the gloss finish: DX-265. But, at its strongest recommended concentration (and then some) it will only give you what F.S. 585 would at best call a semi-gloss finish, if that. The flat listed on the DX-265 mixing instructions, and the Lusterless that we want, are two entirely different things.
While fiddling around trying to get some gloss Chrome Yellow flat enough for a couple of bridge plates, it hit me. The original formula Olive Drab that Randolph makes for the New Jersey Chapter is much thicker (higher viscosity) and by weight much heavier than a similar quantity of Ditzler's DAR-45827 Olive Green, even after the DX-265 was added. Now, some colors will weigh more than others, just due to the chemical weight of the various pigments. But similar colors won't weigh twice as much for identical quantities. Color for color, the liquid vehicle weighs about the same for a given quantity. The entire solids content is just about all pigment (well, 2?S or so is binder, etc.). The only thing left to account for the great disparity in weight and viscosity would 'be the amount of flattening—sand.
After some thought, I came up with a home-made #4 Ford Viscosity Cup (a tuna fish can with a hole in the bottom), and I determined the relative viscosity of both the NJC/Randolph Luster-less Olive Drab and the Ditzler Olive Drab. Due to several variables, viscosity is a much better way of measuring paint for comparison than is weight. Inert Synthetic Silica (S.,0?, from a chemical supply house) was added until the viscosity of the Ditzler Olive Green matched that of the original formula O.D. A sample was reduced for spraying and a test shot made. There is nothing to making home brew Lusterless Synthetic Enamel. The experimental DAR-45827 had exactly the same finish texture and degree of flatness as the original formula paint.
The silica used for this flattening is available from PPG Industries (Chemical Group) and is called Lo-Vel 59A. This is the same material used by paint manufacturers as a flattening agent and a major component of most primer-surfacers. It is sold in 25-pound bags through large chemical supply houses. The last bag I got cost $18 for the 25 pounds. The material is very, very fine, and air seems to make up the ' bulk of it (it's like a big bag of insulation). When using it, by all means wear one of those disposable dust masks (5M), as it is silica and prolonged exposure to it will cause respiratory problems (like plaster/cement dust). And, like plaster, etc., it is very drying to the skin, as it absorbs moisture.
The amount of flattening varies considerably from color to color due to variation in pigment volume and density (which varies from 6 to 50% of the volume of the can). I used an ordinary kitchen measuring cup for the 'lab' work. The Olive Green took a whopping 50^ ratio (two parts paint to one part silica, by volume). Some colors may take as much as a one to one ratio (100^), so don't worry much about having to seemingly add a lot of stuff to the paint. Remember, the bulk of what you are adding to the paint is air.
The only rub is that the silica doesn't wet well and won't want to mix with the paint. This is probably why the Ditzler DX-265 comes in a liquid form. If you just measure it out and dump it in, it won't mix, and the paint will be all lumpy and take forever to get completely mixed. You have to just lightly sprinkle it in a little at a time (a flour sitter is great for this) while stirring it in. When finished, see if you can get the can of finished paint mixed up on a regular commercial paint shaker, to make sure it is really completely mixed.
When you add the flattening agent, you'll end up with a lot more paint than you started with, so get some extra cans from your paint supplier. If you start with a full can, get an extra one and divide it up for mixing. Also, like any heavy-bodied paint, it has a tendency to settle out in the spray cup after it is reduced. Since most of the bulk dumped in is air, the same 53^ reduction for spraying still works well for the modified mix—although there is a tendency to thin it a bit more. Note: acrylic enamels are a lot harder to flatten than the synthetic enamels are, due to the plastics in the vehicle. Polyurethane finishes can't be flattened. There is just no way it can be done, so don't even try. By polyurethane, I also include both the acrylic and the synthetic enamels that have been modified with an added catalyst, or hardeners.
All that I have used the homemade lusterless for is trim work—markings, etc. So, what evil things I've done to the paint composition/chemical balance isn't too overly critical to the ultimate protection of the metal or to the finish durability. I'm sure that the manufacturer would break my arm if he knew what I was doing' to his product. If you are going to mix up a custom batch of lusterless to finish your whole vehicle, I would bear in mind that the paint HAS BEEN ALTERED from its original form. Just what the addition of the silica does to the original sealing ability or for the life expectancy of the finish, I don't know. It looks, sprays and soaks up stains like the original finish—that's all I can say for it.
For an overall finish with this modified paint, I would certainly follow the ideal finish that the Army proposed for the lusterless paint:
An overall first coat of the unaltered gloss enamel to seal and protect, then a second coat of the custom lusterless — just for correct color and finish.
One bit of encouragement for the modified material. First, it opens up a whole new range of available colors for our use. Secondly, the only thing added to the paint is pure sand, which is chemically inert. The paint structure hasn't been radically altered, or anything like that. So, you don't have to worry that after two weeks your truck is going to turn pink, the finish is going to curl up and fall off in sheets, or some other like disaster. Finally, by making your own finishes, it is always available locally, and in any quantity desired.
If anything, this home brew gives you an out. If you want your vehicle to exactly match some off-beat factory original shade, be it greener, grayer or yellower than the now available lusterless Olive Drab, you can, by using one of the presently available commercial full-gloss O.D.'s, match the toolbox door off your Ward-LaFrance Wrecker. All that is left is to match all the runs, sags and other defects of the original paint job.
During the war, the finish quality of these trucks was absolutely terrible. The best thing that can be said is that they were well covered. The lack of any real finish quality of the original paint deserves some explanation.
First, the very nature of the product, the color, and the push for production output hardly inspired any great effort to do a showroom job. Secondly, to get the greatest surface coverage and at the same time conserve materials, a large part of the small hardware was painted by dipping. So, if you are wondering why the runs on your GPW body handles are parallel to the ground, and completely obliterate that precious ~F, or how that dried up paint puddle got into the top of the headlight shells, that's why. Despite the abysmal surface quality, you'll never be able to duplicate the coverage of the original paint job with your spray gun.
On the other hand, you can take solace in the fact that the overall quality of the good, smooth paint job on your restoration will look far better than the original ever did. Just as the sheet metal work and metal finishing will probably be far better than as built. When originally produced, there was little if any consideration for surface filling, finish-sanding, or even the finish-grinding of many visible welds. Military vehicles are more than a little unique unto themselves. There are few things that look as different as a pristine concourse restored Jeep with its perfect everything and porcelain-like rubbed out finish. While a tribute to craftsmanship, it just seems to be out of context. Even the postwar gloss-finished vehicles looked more than a little rough around 'the edges.
To finish up the detail coloring, we end up under the hood. On military vehicles, this is about the only place you'll find any relief from Lusterless Olive Drab. However, as the war progressed, the corporate influence on engine and accessory colors became less and less, as everything was literally washed, away in a flood of O.D.
The only time when EVERYTHING under the hood was Olive Drab was after they had been field, repainted (so it looked good to an inspecting officer) or after the engine or truck had been through an Ordnance overhaul.
Originally, the basic engine and transmission displayed the greatest variation in color. At this date, it is hard to pin down just exactly what color some of these originally were. There is very little documentation in this area, and the very nature of engine paint jobs makes exact matching impossible. Engines were usually just given a light coating of indifferently applied paint. It was so thin and the surface so poorly prepared that surviving examples of the original paint are almost microscopic in size. Also, I'm not sure if they were painted with special high-temp engine enamels or if it was just paint. The basic engine and transmission parts really didn't need any additional painting for protection. All the castings were dipped in Red Oxide lead-based primer to seal the porous cast iron before they were machined. If your block, etc., has been completely boiled out, Rust-Oleum Damp Proof Red Primer will replace this original coating. So, an additional coat of paint was just frosting. The approximate finish colors will be referenced to the closest F.S. color, so you can at least get an idea of the originals.
Most generally, Ford engines and in some instances the transmissions were light Industrial Gray; F.S. 26440 is very close. This color prevailed for GP's, GPW's, and the 6-cylinder engines used in most of the 1-½-ton trucks. Most of the time, the Ford transmission / transfer cases were the same Olive Drab as the rest of the chassis-driveline.
Almost without exception, the engine and transmissions used for the full-line of Dodge-built vehicles were a light glossy-gray, F.S. 26440. For all practical purposes, this was the same color as the Ford GPW gray. A note: while the transmission was gray, that part of the shift tower and level that was above the floor was the same flat O.D. as the rest of the truck.
Unfortunately, the whole Willys engine and driveline was painted with the same Lusterless Olive Drab as the rest of the truck. The Stove-bolt Six used in the Chevrolet vehicles was painted the same glossy blue-gray that the pre- and post-war civilian models were. The closest match to this is F.S. 15107. The transmissions and drivelines were Olive Drab.
At least two colors were used to color code the GMC 270's. Those engines used in the conventional CCKW's were a glossy medium Olive Green (F.S. 24227), while those used in the Cab Over and DUCT'S were a light Sage Green (F.S. 24484). For the large vehicles, those using independently produced engines, like the Hercules and Continental, they were usually gloss or semi-gloss Olive Drab. These large, custom-assembled trucks were usually a lot more uniformly Olive Drab than the lighter, mass-produced vehicles.
While the power plants varied somewhat in color, all the rest of the driveline and chassis came covered with the standard you know what. For the restorer, a slight deviation from the original specs would be in order. In the case of the MB's engine, and all the rest of the driveline, gear cases, axles, etc., it would be wise to paint them with a full or semi-gloss Olive Drab, rather than the original lusterless. This will make for a lot less effort in keeping them clean. The original type finish in this application would be nothing but grief to try to maintain in a pristine state, since it sops up grease and oil stains with a vengeance. With the harder, gloss finish, an occasional shot with some degreaser and a hose will keep it looking much more presentable.
These engine colors are available in high-temp enamels (full gloss), either from a well-stocked paint jobber/auto supply or through the antique car journals (Bill Hirsch, 596 Littleton Avenue, Newark, NJ 0710'?, is a good source). The Ford and Dodge gray (Medium Gray), Chevy Blue-Gray and a gloss Olive Green (Cadillac Green) are readily available. The GMC Sage Green isn't available, unless you check out some of the industrial/engine finishes, as it is a machine-type color.
Of the engine accessories, the fan, air cleaner, starter, generator, oil filter canister (and mounting straps) were universally painted a semi-gloss black. Radiators, by specification, were to be painted with one coat of a special Radiator Paint (a thin, semi-gloss Black). However, they were very commonly painted with the Lusterless Olive Drab. The Black, however, makes for a much more efficient heat transfer and does look a lot better. Of the electrical accessories not already covered, the Delco-Remy Voltage Regulators were always either full-gloss or semi-gloss (plastic case) black. The Auto-Lite regulators generally used the black wrinkle finish or Radio-Finish. Later in the war, however, they were increasingly done in a Forest Green wrinkle finish. This very special paint is usually available only in aerosol cans from a paint jobber or large electronics supply house. The most common brand (ILLBRONZ) comes in both colors. This is very handy to have around for refinishing military radio equipment, toolboxes, etc.
The balance of the engine accessories were usually unpainted and had a zinc or cadmium-plater finish. The cast-iron Zenith carburetors and the cast-iron throttle bodies on the die-cast Carters were covered with a chemically treated rust proof finish that was a brownish-charcoal gray in color. Just what this finish was, I don't know. But it does go away when the parts are cleaned with a caustic carb-cleaner. The bowls of the A.C. fuel filters (Jeep, Chevy and CMC's) were usually bare zinc-plated, while the top casting was painted Olive Drab. The entire Zenith fuel filter (Dodge, Diamond T, etc.) was painted semi-gloss Olive Green.
The die cast fuel pump and carburetor castings were either bare or had a gold—tinted chemical coating. The hose clamps, oil can bracket, radiator water pipes, accelerator linkage brackets and levers, ground and bonding straps, wiring clips, and all nuts, bolts and screws were zinc or cadmium plated.
A couple of final notes on the basic vehicle finishing. Check your truck's TM on the Radio Suppression System. There are many points on the vehicle that are specified to be tinned, clean and bright. These are where the various bonding straps and clips are to make contact (also, they provide ground for the lights). These spots were to be solder-tinned and masked off while the vehicle was painted (1" to 1T" square). These really small points usually don't show up too well in the retouched photos used to illustrate the manuals, so it pays to check the bonding details. In a frame-up restoration, when everything is heavily painted, trying to re-establish ground once it is lost can be a real job.
A close look at the manual pictures, however, will usually show up any painting variations in such things as the engine or its accessories. At least, they are usually good enough to tell if they are black, olive drab or plated.
For the small vehicles (Jeeps and Dodges), all the decals for detailing out the engine compartment are available from several Jeep parts specialists. For the larger vehicles, however, the decals for the Senior oil filters and the various air cleaners are not available.
A final detail. If you are doing a super-duper, frame-up restoration, there is one last chassis detail you shouldn't overlook. After early mid-1945, or so, it was very common to pick out all the grease fittings with a bright red. This was a field applied detail, and the usual form was to paint a 5/4" to 1" diameter red spot around the fitting. The engine and gear case filling and drain plugs were usually painted red at this same time. This was done to make them easier to find, and as an aid to keeping them clean. This is a very classy touch to see on the restored vehicle. Due to their often obscure locations, and the assembly sequence, this is best done by hand. But by using a small brush, say a ^6 or so, it is an easy enough job to do, and is well worth the extra effort.
This, finally, finishes up the basic vehicle painting and takes us down to the actual preparation and application of the vehicle stenciling and markings. That will be the final part of this series.
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The brands of paint mentioned in the article do not mean much in Australia. Many brands of Industrial / Auto enamel are available ranging from cheap to expensive . Flattening agent with a talcum powder base is available from Auto paint shops . Or ordinary talcum powder can be slowly mixed in to achieve a satin finish . Wattyl make a lusterless Olive drab enamel for the Dept. of Defence which is available from Wattyl retail outlets in 1 or 4 litre cans . The Wattyl OD has a dead flat finish and it is very difficult to tint . It’s a case of what you buy you are stuck with , it is probably too light in colour for WW2 applications . To achieve a better result get your paint matched from a colour sample and mix in the flattening agent to suit your needs . Don’t be too fussy with the finish - as the article says after the vehicles left the factories the re-paint jobs done in the field and base workshops were generally AD HOC and at times atrociously rough .
Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
Last edited by Hanno Spoelstra; 16-02-09 at 21:59.
Reason: cleaned up quoted text
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05-07-08, 00:04
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