Gearldton "X"

Daniel Treasure · #1 15-01-08, 13:19

Finally have a little time on my hands (7min) so I am starting to distroy things so they can be fixed, replaced, thrown or sworn at! I started taking a few photos so I will have a rough idea where things go back again! Any advice will be greatly appricated!

The Vacume breaks are there but need a good clean up!

Daniel Treasure · #2 15-01-08, 13:21

stoppin things

Daniel Treasure · #3 15-01-08, 13:24

vacume bit

Daniel Treasure · #4 15-01-08, 13:27

Found out why it aint workin to well. will be relying on bricks under the wheels for a bit yet!

Daniel Treasure · #5 15-01-08, 13:36

The Hi/low/6x6x4 shift was removed when the origional 270 removed with its 4speed box and replaced with a 5 speed. How have others overcome this issue? or will it be easier just to leave it with the two separate leavers? The right (from rear) is the front wheel drive and the left is the HI/LOW. The far left lever is not attached. Should it be?

Daniel Treasure · #6 15-01-08, 13:41

Riped up a bit of the old deck to get a top view

Daniel Treasure · #7 15-01-08, 13:43

Over the middle diff and carrier

Daniel Treasure · #8 15-01-08, 13:47

I believe this is the old 4speed removed 30 odd years ago. I will pull it apart and have a look one of these days but methinks its stuffed

Daniel Treasure · #9 15-01-08, 13:51

Canvas door bracket, saftey strap catch when door removed

Daniel Treasure · #10 15-01-08, 13:54

home made plywood door replacing canvas door. On farm improvement. might actually keep them!! Any one have a closeup of a canvas door latch?

Daniel Treasure · #11 15-01-08, 13:59

got two of these with the truck, Korean war vintage I believe!

Rod Diery · #12 18-01-08, 09:41

Quote:

Originally posted by Daniel Treasure
Any one have a closeup of a canvas door latch?

Hi Dan, Go here for a page on canvas doors on my website

Canvas Doors

Scroll down to the page bottom and you can see a pic showing the latch. They are pretty agricultural looking. A cocky like you should appreciate them.

Cheers
Rod

Daniel Treasure · #13 18-01-08, 11:30

Thanks for that Rod, am almost tempted to keep the plywood doors, not very origional but a significant improvement! do like the sophisticated latch system, right up my alley!

Am heading down south for a week to see what I can pirate from your way

cheers!

Phil · #14 19-01-08, 04:18

Daniel ,
Check out Keith Webbs site
http://www.oldcmp.net/canvas.html

Daniel Treasure · #15 19-01-08, 07:19

Quote:

Originally posted by Phil
Daniel ,
Check out Keith Webbs site
http://www.oldcmp.net/canvas.html

If I go to keiths site then I'm not here!

could always get a second computer!

Keith Webb · #16 19-01-08, 07:39

Quote:

Originally posted by Daniel Treasure
If I go to keiths site then I'm not here! could always get a second computer!

Get a second computer

Daniel Treasure · #17 20-01-08, 09:44

Quote:

Originally posted by Keith Webb
Get a second computer

My better half want's a new one!

Daniel Treasure · #18 22-01-08, 13:06

More pullin appart and first bit of painting!

Daniel Treasure · #19 22-01-08, 13:22

Anyone know what the bit to the right of the speedo is for? The small brass fitting fits in the small hole between the dash lights, The back end has 4 spring loaded bits to keep back pressure on the brass bit which fits in a slot (clear as concrete)

Keith Webb · #20 22-01-08, 14:39

Quote:

Originally posted by Daniel Treasure
Anyone know what the bit to the right of the speedo is for? The small brass fitting fits in the small hole between the dash lights, The back end has 4 spring loaded bits to keep back pressure on the brass bit which fits in a slot (clear as concrete)

It should be the high beam indicator I think.

Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) · #21 22-01-08, 14:52

Quote:

Originally posted by Daniel Treasure
Anyone know what the bit to the right of the speedo is for? The small brass fitting fits in the small hole between the dash lights, The back end has 4 spring loaded bits to keep back pressure on the brass bit which fits in a slot (clear as concrete)

Daniel, whatever you do, don't cross-wire those four spring-loaded bits... the truck will explode in flames shortly thereafter (duration depending on the degree of inner corrosion in the switch).

Daniel Treasure · #22 23-01-08, 01:00

Quote:

Originally posted by Keith Webb
It should be the high beam indicator I think.

G'day Kieth, Hows it work? All you can see from the front face of the dash is the little brass bit?

Gif, with my sparky skills, that could be a high possability!

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #23 24-01-08, 11:18

Daniel
What truck are these images from as the dash setup is identical to the one in my ex. Ford ambulance. The panel pictured here was for the ambulance but I then moved the truck on. This panel setup is waiting for a lucky buyer. All the instruments are new and I have six NOS single pole single throw switches to go with it. The only one I don't have is the DPDT switch for the fuel tanks.
Bob

Daniel Treasure · #24 25-01-08, 04:52

G'Bob, The dash I have is from a ford f60s as are all the gages, Although my truck is a chev, the old dash in it is exactly identical as the ford one I picked up. (except where some barsted took to it with an angle grinder). The old dash has no switches or speedo but all the old chev gages are conected and opperational(oil, fuel, batt, temp) Are the ford gages electrical and chev mechanical? and can you tell me what are the rest of the differences in the dashes? Am going on holidays so I will contact you in a week or two

Many Thanks