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Old 03-09-19, 22:37
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 3,384
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Hi Brian.

Here is a photo of the exploded layout of the output terminal I have for the Coil, Aerial Tuning No. 2 A, showing the orientation of all the bits in relation to the side of the case it mounts to.

As you will see, apart from the damage to the stem of the inner insulator unit, the midsized paper washer that fits between the ceramic and the wooden wall of the case is half missing. The large one on the exterior side of the case is in good shape, as is the small one that fits between the end of the inner ceramic bit and the mounting flat washer, inside toothed lock washer, and the brass hex nut. If you can get your hands on a black, manila file folder, that material will work perfectly to cut a replacement middle washer.

The thread for the long brass stem and brass hex nut is 10-32. Both could do with a cleaning up. Also, what you see in the way of hardware here is used simply to mount the socket/insulator assembly to the wooden case. Do not run it home excessively. A second internal tooth lock washer and brass hex nut are needed for the end to fasten the output lead from the actual coil to the stem of the aerial socket.

As for the three internal connections, it looks like, from the photos you posted, the two leads are still there for the pair of input terminals from the sender, at the sides, lower rear. These terminals have the wing nuts on the outside of the case. The leads are the tinned copper lines coming from the lower corners of the thick, brown, phenolic supports on either side of the coil drum assembly. They should end in a No. 10 crimp style ring terminal and from your photo, those might still be attached to the two input terminals. Somebody may have just cut through the cables rather than unbolt them. Sigh! IF they are still there, with a little time and care they can be saved. Heat them up and wick, or suck the old solder away enough to open up the crimp and pull the wire stubs free. Resolder and crimp them to the surviving connector cables and you are good to go. Those old No. 10 terminals will be slightly more robust than the ones you find today, although the newer ones will work just fine. Just depends on how much of a challenge you enjoy tackling, I suppose.

An identical type of tinned copper cable should run between the end of the ceramic insulator/socket assembly to a hex nut/screw assembly on the upper portion of the right hand large brown, phenolic support plate. This hex nut/screw assembly will be directly above the lower one on the right side, closest to you, right at the axel point of the drum. If it has been bodged out of there, you may have to remove the coil assemble to get better access for replacing it, as mentioned, the construction will be identical to the other two already present. I tried getting a picture of mine but the location inside the case is too narrow and dark for a good shot of it.

Let me know if you are still interested and send me your postal information. I will then see what shipping will be for you.

And thanks, by the way. I have not got around to working on my Coil yet. It’s complete now but will need a full disassembly to tidy up and repaint the case. Have to finish working on my two receivers at the moment and then tackle restoring the two wooden accessory boxes I now have for my 52-Set Project.

Best regards,

David
Attached Thumbnails
WS-52 Coil, Aerial Tuning No. 2 A 3.JPG  
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