[Bob Carriere]

....somewhere on the forum are pictures of the round rods made square at the bottom 2 or so inches...... the square keeps the canvass window from moving in and out and is more rigid........

The Mac repro are about 3/16 too short and the screw into the bottom hole does not perfectly line up........ have not resolved that issue yet....... I considered casting in brass.......lost wax process!!!! turning on a lathe with 3/4 brass stock would be easy but as mentioned/discussed with Grant....how do you do the inside square blind hole.......

Paul the exact screw dimensions...thread size is not critical as it is hidden inside the door..... you just need to find a slotted machine screw of 10-32 or 8 -32...... basically match the hole to the screws you have......

Of all the cab I have only one tube that is in good enough shape to make a mold.

Caution: when inspecting other badly rusted cab 11 doors Grant and I discovered that there is a 1/8 inch spacer...... like a thick round penny that his spot welded on the inside the door frame of the door.....it takes up the space of the bottom tube and the frame door........ so that when you tighten the screw holding the tube it is drawn against the spacer and the tube stays straight/vertical........if I casted my own I would probably solder a piece of brass stock to the tube to increase its thickness just at the same area.

Another alternative would be to encase the tube held perfectly vertical and use epoxy to fill the gap solidly...... and still install the screw and also encased in metallic epoxy........ and pray you never have to remove it. We have had good luck with J-B weld...even sanding and tapping......I find the putty type more suitable for this kind of work as it will not run.

I have also reinforced my door frame when making them as all of the ones I had, had cracked in the narrowest portion of the frame near the door aligning wedge.....beefed up from the inside......... also deleted the retrofitted door strap device that had weakened the frame with drilled screw hole and distorted the outside skin. In other words I made my doors as original cab 11 with NO canvass door strap....... but in case I change my mind I made that section of the frame slightly wider and boxed so that if I drilled holes in the future it would be strong enough to handle it. I have pictures of these changes if you are interested.

Being and early cab 11 that stayed in Canada it never had the rubber marker lights on the front fenders (nor the rear axle blackout light) but rather relied on the extra bulb mounted inside the headlight reflectors and added signal lights on the bumper.....which are not original and I find ugly........so as a Winter project Imay rebuild myself 2 extra headlight buckets with NOS reflectors including the marker sidelights fully incorporated in the bucket....... that means having 3 wires HI- Low and marker PLUS a fourth wire to insure good ground....I have found proper bucket light sockets that fits on the under side at 5 o'clock on the bucket but they only come in single or double wire connections.....3 wires or 4 do not exist in the repro world...... MAC's in the USA has all the nifty reflectors, bulbs, lens, gaskets even Halogen bulbs meant for the repro reflectors....... which may heat too much and make me consider using the new more powerful LED bulb....if they fit. Currently running modern sealed beams hi-lo.

Let us know how you resolve that issue.......with photos....... my back pain pills are kicking in .......so time for bed.

Bob C