Thread: How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration
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Old 07-08-14, 15:04
chris vickery's Avatar
chris vickery chris vickery is offline
3RD ECHELON WKSP
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nipissing Ontario Canada
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Well Bob there you have it for one advantage of epoxy primer- it can be painted directly over with no other special coatings, primers etc required.
Once it has hardened, it will not come off. You can bend metal whatever you want. You can hit it with a hammer and it will not chip or flake.
The key with the epoxy is to let it cure sufficiently to not affect the top coat but to top coat it within 24hrs of spraying.
With flat military type paints not such a big deal as the epoxy flashes off quickly but I have seen guys in a rush with gloss finishes where they did not allow it to flash off and the solvents from the epoxy causes the top coat to become patchy-areas that were glossy and areas that were dull.
Two part epoxy is available from a wide range of places that deal in auto body supplies but I think even Napa and Carquest carry it.
I have painted 95% of my projects outside on a nice calm day when its not too hot. Even better if you have one of those tent shelters that you can work in.
All paints are obviously nasty for ones health.
A well fitting cartridge style half mask is recommended at a minimum with the correct filters. I use a 3M brand.
Also, don't be tardy in cleaning up your spray equipment.
Most industrial applications as well as body shops are using epoxy primer systems and even epoxy paints.
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3RD Echelon Wksp

1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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