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Old 01-04-20, 04:12
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Posts: 3,384
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Today’s work on the Sender was one of those sessions that covers the full spectrum from great to depressing.

On the great side, the set screw in the grey Handles Knob on the IPA 7 – 16 MC Dial assembly only broke free about one half turn before locking up again, so I had no idea at all if it was free from the brass shaft fitting, or still biding against it. Even after a good light oil soak. So out came the puller once more. Much to my surprise, when it was set up and ready to go, it drew the Handle from the brass fitting smoothly in one continuous motion. The dial lifted off easily next and I then retrieved the small brass shims between the back of the dial and the brass fitting. Interestingly enough, there were only two of these shims on this dial assembly, as compared to the three in place on the PA TUNE Dial shaft.

When the Randle had been lifted free of the shaft, I expected to find the two small Clamping Screw Spring Retaining Pins sitting on top of the centre of the dial plate, as had been the case with the PA TUNE Handle. If you do not maintain outward tension on the spring ends protruding from the Handle when lifting it from the shaft, the pins simply drop out of their holes. When I turned the Handle over to have a closer look, I found dried grease stuffed into each pinhole to keep them in place the last time the dial assembly was overhauled. That was something I had considered once when working on the 19-Set Handles.

Even more dirt and grime was under this IPA 7 – 16 MC Dial than the PA TUNE when it was lifted free and the dial itself is going to need so heaps of TLC to bring it back to anything close to original appearance.

Now for the dark side.

You will notice in the attached photo, a rusty outline of the mounting end of the Slow Motion Drive Assembly. The spring portion has surface rust present but is otherwise in good shape. The pin on the right hand end of the drive assembly that drops into the slot on the end of the Lower Flick Drive Arm is another matter. It was corroded so badly, it was no longer round and was stuck in the slot in the arm. It took about one half hour of coaxing to work it free from the arm. I was pleased to see the arm itself was in very good shape as the pin came free. The corrosion was contained to the pin on the Slow Motion Drive. However, as the Slow Motion Drive came free and the Lower Flick Arm swing up towards the centre shaft, I heard a ‘Ping’ from the area of the Flick Lever Shaft Assembly and the Lower Flick Lever suddenly stopped swinging towards the centre shaft. Checking the Flick Lever Shaft, I found it was in a complete free wheeling mode, in control of nothing at all.

The top end of the Lower Flick Lever fits into the shaft of the Flick Lever. A second, Upper Lever comes off the Flick Lever Shaft and heads up to control the two Frequency Indicator Flags (Red and Blue) above the dial. A C-Shaped Wire Spring hooks into the bottom end of the Upper Flick Lever Arm, wraps around the Flick Lever Shaft and hooks into the top end of the Lower Flick Lever Arm. This spring provides all the necessary tension to keep the two Flick Lever Arms snugly in place against the Flick Lever Shaft and at the same time provides the necessary tension and resistance within the Flick System to make it all work. This simple little spring has either broken, or popped loose.

In the photo, you can see a portion of the Lower Flick Lever Arm just below the central brass fitting. That arm should be pointing directly at the Flick Lever Shaft, not above it as it now rests.

Welcome to the Dark Side of the day!

The only way to determine exactly what is going on with this Flick Drive now, and fix it, is to completely remove the front panel of the Sender to gain full access to the Flick Drive Assembly. There are some very logical advantages to being able to remove the front panel. It will make several repairs extremely easy. The problem is the complete lack of any documentation describing the correct way to free up the front panel and remove it. When you have absolutely no spare parts at all at your disposal for such an undertaking…

So endith my Sender work for the day.


David
Attached Thumbnails
WS No. 52 Sender 23.JPG  
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