I would agree with Alex about the valves. If you can get the motor to run, the heat might help. But if you run it too long with a stuck valve, you will burn the valve or worse yet the seat. You can free the valves either from the intake, or by removing the head and giving them a little tap each time they don't go down. After doing this a dozen or so times, they will free up. Best bet is to only tap them while the opposite valve of that cylinder has fully risen to the top.
To jump the carrier, run a small jumper wire for power (negative) to the neg terminal of the coil. The positive side of the coil (positive is the ground on these old fords) connects to the points. Is your coil the one right on the distributer, or the one mounted up top of the engine?
You can do this with 12 volts for a short time if you respect that the coil will not be happy in the long term. Otherwise, you will want to reduce the voltage to the coil by either using a 6 volt battery, or else a resister inline to the coil to drop the voltage. The starter will handle 12 volts without a problem.
Check for spark while the engine is turning over. In all likelihood though, you will have to, at a minimum, replace the points. As a temporary fix, you can lightly file them until they are clean.
The points generally aren't found at NAPA or Cdn tire anymore (although NAPA seems to come or go when it comes to some of these vintage parts) . A place like MACs, or any of the Ford vintage supply houses, can fix you up with new points.
If your coil is the one mounted directly to the distributer, for the longterm, look at replacing it with a new one, or installing one of those kits that let you use a newer coil. If it is one of the coils mounted independently over the head, you can still get those through Cdn tire.
Good luck with your motor.
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