Thanks for the feedback, Gentlemen. Much appreciated.
I have used various liquid paint strippers over the years but in all cases I was dealing with common hardwoods which have a very tight grain and density, so I was not too concerned about the liquids from the stripper penetrating into the wood and becoming a latent risk. This is the first time I have ever considered liquid strippers on a softwood, like spruce, or in this case, pine, even if it is dry, 80 year old board. So I put that idea on hold.
I had forgotten about "0000" Steel Wool. Thanks for reminding me. Last time I had used that was to cut back the thin surface of the wood furniture from a Lee Enfield Mk V, which has been sitting in Cosmoline for 30 years.
On the current project, I have been working with small blocks of wood wrapped in sand paper. Slow, and hard on the fingers and wrists and regardless of task lighting, I always seem to be working in my own shadows, but the paint is disappearing. That old NATO Green is one tough enamel to start working on, but once you break through the surface hardened exterior bit, it does cut back fairly well.
What I am noticing, however, is that having to mask up due to the lead based paint dust is what slows me down the most. Breathing efficiency is definitely reduced.
David
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