[Bob Carriere]

I have had luck with glueing the gasket to the pan........ NOT ON the block

Using Permartex in a very thin coat on the pan sides, corners and over the bearing cap......... I usually take fine sewing thread and lace the side gasket using the bolt holes.....find the finest thread your wife has in her sewing basket....... it will hold the gasket in place while drying....... I glue the bearing cap gasket on to the cap........ trimming the end of the gasket is done during a dry run before the Permatex is applied and that I fill the corner with a good an mount of Permatex before dropping the pan back on....... it is wowth waiting overnight to let everything set properly....except for the Permatex aded to the four corners. I do not bother to remove the thread as bolting will shear off any excess. I use old HD axle grease that has almost hardened to putty to give the cork a verylight smear of grease. I like to hand tighten snug and a few hours later give it the last final 1/4 turn with a screw driver nut driver.

Easy to to when the engine is up side down on the engine stand..... BUT the real fun is when you have to remove the pan two years later from underneath and everything comes out in one piece and can be reseud again.

Same applies to the top valve cover and the side valve covers.....even if if the Permatex is not fully set, the fine thread will keep things from sliding.

How many think of modifying the two bottom screws of the timing chain cover by drilling/tapping the bearing cap for bolts..... so that the timing cover can be removed at a later date WITHOUT having to drop the oil pan.....

Cheers