Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere
Hi Alex
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Phil
After looking at your data chart...... would an oil cooler for the engine be part of your solution..? they now have an oil spin-on filter with a thermostat that will cool the engine ONLY when required..... and you can use a double PH 8 spin on for approx. 2 more liter of oil.
Have you considered installing side panels on your engine stand to simulate the engine compartment air flow and large fan in front of the engine.........
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Hi Bob
Strange you should mention Oil Temps as part of the equation. When I was testing the 261 engine prior to putting it in I ran some long test on the engine stand hour plus one of the things being checked was the inlet and outlet temp of the oil filter that was mounted in the airstream from the fan.
What I was testing for was oil pressure drop as the oil and engine temp went up. You will notice that there is a significant delta temp across the filter from the cooling area of the big spin on filter.
Once the engine was installed with the longer lines to and returning from the filter and the filter mounted lower more down in the airstream under the truck the delta got even larger. The cooling effect on the oil means that you have to drive the truck pretty hard for at least an hour to get the oil temp and the engine temp to equalized. If the outside air is much below 70F it never does, which means the valves can only really be adjusted in hot weather.
As to adding an oil cooler/ oil warmer wonder which would be better an air flow cooler or one that runs through the bottom tank of the radiator? But will over cooling the oil just add to the problem of vapor condensation in the oil not getting boiled out? Or is the internal air temperature through which all the oil must travel at some point get high enough to boil of the water vapor. But maybe that is why they have the thermostatically control oil cooler?
Now as to adding side panels to the test stand, that will raise a whole another set of study questions. I do know that if you run the Pat 13s with out the front side shield it makes the cab a lot hotter. Managed to over heat the driver (me) on the recent long convoy I think because didn't have the drivers side shield installed. The guy riding with me used the IR gun to read the foot well temps and the drivers side (no shield) was 20F higher than the passengers side (with shield) now how much of this was also the air spaces around the pedals I don't know. Since have fabricated a two piece drivers side heat shield which is easy to instal and remove for service and I put rubber flaps around the clutch pedal which is inboard of the shield.
Now to Tony's comment on delta on the radiator at full throttle, believe he is absolutely correct if the radiator is at all undersized. If the radiator is big enough there will be a delta change and should be a delta. There is also the obviously, as Tony points out, a speed through the radiator at which fluid is moving to fast for heat exchange to take place. This gets into the problem of no thermostat no flow restriction may make an over heating problem worse. With the CMPs though I don't think we are at that point because the top hose is so small.
This afternoons work will be to use a radiator flush and do another long engine run to see if the temperatures change.