I've tried two approaches,
which each have their merits.
My brother and I bought a pair of 8cwt CMPs back in the 80s. I stripped mine down to the chassis, and spent the next 5 years rebuilding it, with a lot of help from local club members, before I could drive it.
My brothers Chev was kept on the road and restored bit by bit over a similar period. He got to enjoy using it, but the big jobs weren't done till later, when a donor truck came along, and major parts could be rebuilt then swapped onto the going truck. He had his share of calamities: a stripped timing gear, a piston crown separating on two occasions, and a serious loss of oil on another. Many of these happened about 100 miles from home too.
That truck did some long journeys of 300 to 400 miles there and back. It has a reconditioned motor now, and is very reliable.
25 years later they are both on the road still, and we travelled 800 miles at Easter to the national rally. They are in need of TLC (or refit) now, but that will have to wait for a while.
I agree with the comments above: photos and labels, and lots of containers. Steel ammo boxes of all sizes help too, and make it easier to lug stuff around if you have to shift, or to stack up for storage.
You will learn to cut a nut off with a cold chisel without damaging the threads of the bolt.
If your hammer doesn't shift something, don't belt it again, get a BIGGER hammer. A few heavy whacks are better than lots of little ones.
On this site you will find info on mixes for DIY penetrating oils, and rust removal concoctions, sources for parts and modern equivalents, and measurements or patterns for missing parts.
Welcome to a great hobby: you will meet friendly people from all over the world who share our passion for rusty old trucks in khaki and other greens .
cheers
Rob
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