22 or 24 Bolt Sidevale for Ford F15
 

Hi Guys ,
One of the F15 Blitz`s i have bought is missing its motor and i was wondering which motor it should have ? should it be a 22 or 24 bolt sidevalve V8 ?

Thanks
Plushy

Plushy
According to MB-F1 that covers all models, it states all models have the same motor. All CMPs I've seen have been 24 stud. Also have a look in your other F15, that should tell you.
Bob

Plushy,

Ford only produced either a 21 stud engine or a 24 stud engine. Never a 22 stud engine. All blitz's hav a 24 stud engine. The Poms had a 60hp. 21 studder and Ford America/Canada had a 21 studder to 1937. Regards Rick

Ok thanks guys . Bob i cant look in the other truck yet as its still where i bought it from it should get here saturady i hope .

I have found a guy who has a few Sidevalve V8`s which he says are out of Blitz`s but they are 21 stud . i will take a look and see if they are as he claims he has whats left of the blitz`s as well . :confused

More importantly, it should be a 24 stud engine with 3 3/16 bore giving 239ci, and it should have an integral bellhousing on the rear with the distributor mounted on the front cover.
Most Ford cars and trucks from '37 to 45 had a 3 1/16 bore 221ci engine. The Blitz and Aust Carriers had the 239 engine from the Mercury. Ford finally changed to 239 engines from the commencement of civvy production in 46. In 1949, a new style of 239 engine came out with a conventional style distributor in front of the right cylinder bank and without an integral bellhousing on the back.

so dizzy on front and intergrated bell housing ?

is this one ?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...kol/c5df_1.jpg

Engine Capacity
 

Tony
Whilst I agree with you that a lot of CMPs and Carriers here in Oz had the Mercury 3 3/16 bore motor, MB-F1 lists all motors across the CMP range as having a 3.1875" bore. Did Oz specify that we needed the larger motors in our vehicles?
Bob

Re: Engine Capacity
 

Bob,

Erm, 3 and 3/16 = 3.1875". . .

H.

Same arrangement, but that is a 21 stud engine, so 3 1/16 bore (3.0625!!) or 221ci. (and it looks like a car 3 speed gearbox on the back)

Well i looked at the motors today , the guy i visited has at least a dozen or more 24 stud sidevalve V8`s in his shed . I looked at the 21 stud motor in the picture and decided against it as i want to restore the F15 to close to original . he also had a 24 Stud motor with all the accesories including original linkages that came out of a F15 but he wants $750 for the motor as is . I turned the motor over a few times and it has some compression but not a lot . Is the motor worth getting for $750 or should i haggle the price down a bit ?

Maths & Motors
 

Hi Hanno - I hated maths as a kid and I still do. If you say that's what it is then that's what it is. But what is Tony's 3.0625.

Plushy - they don't grow on trees. My experience is that if you find something you want, buy it before some other bugger does. How much could you really save by haggling as opposed to the risk of someone else getting it. If the motor is out of an F15 and has original add ons it sounds perfect. OK the compression might not be great but what do you expect from a 65 year old motor. No matter what motor you buy you are going to have to go through it. Bite the bullet, stop buggerising around and just buy it.
Bob

Buy the motor..
The best you'll see is 100 PSI compression on that motor...
If it is low evenly ..you have a good motor..
What kind of readings did you get...Did you do the readings wet and dry..??
Tell us more..

:drunk: :remember :support

Alex it was more of a guess as to how much compression basically i spun the crank pulley by hand and felt the resistance on the pulley if that makes sense ? i wouldn`t know for certain until i buy the motor and get it home to test properly . It was a 500klm round trip to get some other parts from the guy . The Guy told me the price was as is , i asked if i could take of the head to look inside but he said as is take it or leave it .
:bang:

Hence i am asking for a rough guess as to wether i should buy it or not . :confused

Take it or leave it...
 

For $750.00 I'd leave it unless you could get the motor rolling over and get the compression on each cylinder...and that wouldn't be a quarantee that it wasn't cracked..For $100.00 bucks I'd take it under the conditions and you would have at least some good parts off it if the block was cracked but under those conditions he set it is worth the scrap weight..or maybe a few bucks more..
500 KM is a long way to drag home an anchor..
:remember :support :drunk:

Lack of compression
 

In old sidevalve V8s this is often due to sticking valves which is easy to cure.
My advice would be to whip the heads off - that will at least tell you what's happening in the top end of the engine. Big end bearings are another matter altogether...

Re: Maths & Motors
 

Bob,

That's your 3 1/16 bore. Use the calculator on you confusor. I do it all the time to convert those silly inches into proper centimeters.

H.