Truck Name and Overheating
 

Well my Pattern 12 C60L is formally on the road and finial has an official name, hope that our group will approve of the “vanity” license plate my other trucks have carried the license plates BEAUTY, and BEAST the new truck has the plate CANADA.

I tried to get the truck on the road for our clubs big summer rally at the end of July ( http://www.cckw.org/mvmvc_weare_rally.htm ), even headed out with CANADA only to have it loose power and overheat 10 miles from the home. After it cooled down, headed back home only to have it overheat, again this time called for the flat bed and hauled it the rest of the way. Part of the problem was the outside air temperature was low to mid 90s so I was over heating as much as the truck.
The overheating was a bit of a surprise as the engine had about 50 hours of run time on the engine stand but the engine was also intermittently hard starting. Checked the normal easy things, fuel pressure, and timing. Then started check the more difficult things thermostat, back flushing the radiator, would not be the first time that mice decided to build a nest while the radiator was waiting to be installed. Found nothing then because of the intermediate hard starting figured I would change carburetor. Before putting a new carburetor on thought better check the float setting on the new carburetor and discovered that the float was set over ½ inch instead of the 3/8ths listed in the CMP manual, so figured I recheck the carburetor that was on the truck it to was set over a ½ inch. I figure that this was causing the carburetor to run lean. As over heating and hard starting were worse when the truck was nose up, on hills figured maybe this was really starving the engine for fuel. After reinstalling the carburetor hard starting seems to be gone and the engine is now running cooler, only a couple of long road runs with lots of hills

Re: Truck Name and Overheating
 

Phil, I can fully commiserate with you over driving CMP's in extreme temps.! We're now into 30 plus days of triple digit temperatures this summer in Texas. Forecast high today- 103! When I first started driving my C15 around here in the summer I kept a watchful eye on the temp guage. The short drives at reenactments and in convoys haven't been a problem, its the slow crawling in Bull-low in parades is what gets my CMP's temperature up. After my first near-overheating adventure I did a few things to help keep my engine cool. I flushed the block out thoroughly and found quite a bit of rusty coolant. I kept flushing until only clear water flowed, then I replaced the coolant with 100% antifreeze after making sure to replace and tighten all the hose clamps. I also replaced the water pump. My truck already runs a little rich so I left the carb as is. I tried driving my truck without a thermostat on the hottest days, but it took forever to get the engine to near operating temp and the engine is sluggish when it's too cool. I finally drilled two small holes in the thermostat to reduce restriction to coolant flow a little. This has helped as my truck hasn't exceeded 200F. as indicated on the temp guage on even the hottest days when I'm hauling a dozen or so vets around in the back. As for keeping the driver cool, I keep an ice chest full of water and ice and I use a Cool-Wrap around my neck. The Cool-Wrap really helps when the cab temp hits 130F!



:cheers: CHIMO! :cheers:

More Things to do to keep cool
 

Of course waiting for cooler temperatures is an option here in the Northern States. We've already had frost warnings in August in some of the northern valleys of New Hampshire.

But really, I think the problem was caused by running the engine leaned way out because of float set wrong. With that fixed the engine seems to run right around 170-180 now which would make senses with a 160 thermostat. Your advice about flushing the engine is right on, this engine had been completely apart and rebuilt and the block boiled out so it was clean inside as was the radiator. The water that comes out of it is clear with only a slight tint from rust inhibitor, once I’ve gotten a little more run time on it I’ll drain and add antifreeze.

Have discovered that Pattern 12 Cab really needs all the little do-dads like the screen door hooks on the doors so that you can ride with the doors open 6”. And the insulation board (originally asbestos) looks like a must also the engine compartment seems to be more pressurized by the fan than on the 13 Cab as every seam in the engine cover, which there are a lot more, seam to be a source for more hot air into the cab. Even with the cab top off the 12 Cab is warmer than either of my 13 Cabs.


By the way what color is your C15? My HUP is the dark olive while my Pattern 13 C60S is the light tan (British Sand color) park both trucks out in the sun and the C60 is considerably cooler.

Re: More Things to do to keep cool
 

I wanted my truck to stand out from the sea of O.D. so I painted my CMP SCC#2, and yes, it's dark enough to provide a lot of heating from the sun's rays. I agree about the seams blowing hot air in the cab 13, although I'm sure to enjoy that come February! One small trick I do is to wedge the hatch open about 3 inches to act as a wind scoop to help cool the cab a little while I'm driving.

Asbestos engine cover lining
 

Derek

Seeing your comment re "originally asbestos" implies that you have changed materials.
I have been a bit concerned about the fraying asbestos sheets on my cab 12 Ford F8 and have set them aside for now. Did you remove yours? Did you snip all those hundreds of staples or what? And what material did you use instead of asbestos?

David Moore
Kinston ON

Re: Asbestos engine cover lining
 

Hi David

Not sure what Derek has done but I have removed what was left of the asbestos sheeting. Yes, I snipped of all the wire staples and pulled them. At one point in my work, I was certified in asbestos removal for schools and hospitals so removing it safely was not a concern. I have replacement asbestos sheeting in stock and if I cannot find a good substitute, I will install it the new sheeting after coating it with the encapsulate that is used in abatement work.

I’m torn between originality and practicality while the asbestos is original given the temperature and the noise I think using closed cell rubber foam that is used in commercial heating duct applications may be the way to go.

Cheers Phil

DERIK QUIT CRYING!!!!!! :fry:
THE TEMP ON MY CHEVY WAS 125 YESTERDAY :eek:
will you be coming to the militaria show this sat?
dave

Re: Asbestos engine cover lining
 

Hi David

the OCMP have replaced the asbestos on all our 11,12 and 13 cabs using a commercially available heat resistant board that you can get here in the UK from builders merchants, we cut out the same size and shape panels as the originals and stuck them on using a commercial grip fix adhesive.

Pete

Re: Asbestos engine cover lining
 

I was fortunate in that the previous owner of my truck removed all the asbestos prior to my purchasing it. The E.P.A. has a wild-eyed hissy fit if someone even mentions Asbestos down here. Asbestos is only dangerous when its friable, which it sounds like yours is. Get rid of it and quickly! Remember Babcock and Wilcox?...the world's largest manufacturer of boilers?...they went broke from all the lawsuits over the asbestos insulation they used. I'm surprised all the ex-RCN types who sailed in the 230's on down haven't come down with Asbestosis or lung cancer yet! Right now, I'm driving sans insulation which makes for a noisy and hot drive. I'm thinking about experimenting with cementitious board as insulation, but haven't had time to work on it yet. In the meantime I'm open to ideas.


:cheers: CHIMO! :cheers:

What is this, some kind of Hottier-than-thou competition? Anything over 100 is freakin' hot!, as I'm going to find out in the parade I'm in tomorrow in Denton, hence, the answer to your question, mein gefreiter.


:salute: KHUIIMOU! (Chimo in ersatz German) :salute:

So, what was the temperature IN your Chevy yesterday? :yappy:

Engine compartment insulation......
 

Possibly this could become a seperate topic onits own due to the specifics and common needs of all concerned.....

Advice from the moderator welcomed.....

The real issues to contend with contend with are

the end results should be fairly close to the original looks... it should be of such texture that it can cosmetically modified to look like 1940..... not reflective aluminium .....

it has to withstand some extreme heat as in a cab 11/12 the exhaust manifold is 1 1/2 inch from the engine cover skin....

It has to be soft enough to absorbe and muffle sounds from the engine ........ yet not to absorbent to soak leaking gasoline.....

has to be fire proof not just fire resistant....

ah yes.... affordable and not have to order a minimum full sea container from Asia.....

I have found a few sources for racing car insulation matt but in most cases looks toooo modern or could not be modified to look 1940......

...or the supplier is not interested in dealing with our limited orders.......

One source which has remained elusive is the ceramic cloth used in the auto glass industry....looks like fiberglass cloth but finer texture..... can be sown into a 3/8 inch thick quilt with a regular industrial sewing machine and will resist up to 1000 Celsius..... used to cover glass molds to shape side windows into the required curved shape......

What else is available......????

Retaining the original asbestos is not an option in my cab11
....except for a few remainng corners ..... all was carried away by rodents who I hope all died of a horrible cancerous death the dirty little buggers!!!

Advice please....

Bob C.

Look at......
 

....what I found per chance.....

http://www.engineheatprotection.com/index.html

Any one with expereince with this product..... avaialble in mats, cloth and panels......

Bob C

Asbestos encapsulate
 

Phil

Could you name/describe the encapsulate - maybe it is available here in Canada? Your comments well taken but it seems to me that there may be least exposure by spraying with encapsulate ( wearing a mask) rather than fiddling to get the boards off.

Cheers
David

Re: Asbestos encapsulate
 

Dave- I started to write an explanation of how to do it based on my training of many years ago. Then thought better instead I'll suggest that you go on line and google "asbestos removal" there are a lot of sites the but take a look at the different governmental sites look particularly under home owner removal.

I did this and the information is far better than my memory.

Think you will see that the type of board used on vehicles was at the low end of the hazard scale.

asbestos
 

Thanks, Phil
I'll follow this via local websites and report back. Glad that this board probably isn't the worst stuff! Hopefully the asbestos sheet garage roof that I drilled and cut back in England in the 60's wasn't too bad either! Also, do you remember stuff called Rawlplug Putty that was asbestos fibre mixed with plaster that you spat on and mixed in your hand for hole filling?!

I'm also a steam engine nut and I recall those 10,000 or so steam railway engines that were scrapped in the UK in the sixties - all of them had asbestos boiler lagging that was pulled off by hand! Poor sods who did that!

Cheers
David