Help
 

The old boy needs some help!
I have a carrier that will go between 7 an 10 miles before it dies
I have converted it from the |Ford coil to the later coil and the distributor top
the coil has been replaced 3 times but always seem to have lots of spark /THINKING IT IS COIL BREAK DOWN
The condenser has been replace more time than enough/ 5
and has no spark at the plugs but let the machine cool down and it starts
maybe for one minute maybe for 10 CONDENSOR
the carrier goes between seven and ten miles and just out of the blue it quits
the carrier in question has an electric fuel pump and fuel is not a problem
This is a first for me so I was wondering if the condensors that we buy now are S*** or If the old guy just doesn't know what he is doing
:confused :mad:

I kept my Mk1 carrier all stock 6V for the restorationm so I could rely on the wiring and troubleshooting info int he manuals. I did add a 12 v battery in the wireless battery box to ONLY run the starter. I disconnected the 6v off the press to start button in the dash. Wired a much lighter wire back to a 6v solinoid that handled the heavy amps from the battery to the starter.

Spun the 6v starter with gusto, but didn't hurt it and was a great starter! Always had to charge the 12V before an event and we carried a spare fresh charged 12v in the club that could be swapped out at events in a pinch.

Having siad that, I had a similar issue that I thought was a coil breaking down under load.

Turned out it was a bad cell in the 6 V battery, as that is in the charging circuit with the generator and the cut-out.

Replaced the battery and the running issues went away, nevver to return.
My .02 worth...

anouther issue might be something getting pulled up in your fuel lines that is collecting to block the flow, then settling back down when you have stopped.

Shaun had a similar problem at Holland and he did something with an extra wire to his battery.... Maybe worth dropping him an email.

Are you running through a resistor before the coil?

Hi Stew,

Maybe a cracked rotor or dizzy cap?

Cheers,

a friend of mine had exactly the same fault on his t16, I will email him and find out how he fixed it.

Hi Stew

Hope you're well?

Tobin's T16 had the same issue, something to do with the generator over powering the ignition and causing it to break down. He did everything you have regarding condensers etc. you could try a new/different generator? A swap to electric ignition cured the problem and now it's perfect.........

Ben

I remember tobin was so frustrated he considered ditching the whole engine and putting a French flathead in. maybe electronic ignition is the way to go

Thanks for the input guys ,I really appreciate the quick responds
but I think Andrew nailed it when he asked if I was running through a resistor in the dash
The coils I was using had internal resistors therefore it was going through two which I think would be killing the condenser power
I will keep everyone up to date
That's what happens when the mind gets fuzzy :doh:
Thanks again guys it is great to have friends
and all is well on this side of the pond (both ways)

Hi Stew, just to tell you our set up over here, this is what all my carriers use: original 6V generator housing, that has the fields changed with 12volt ones from a Lucas C45 12volt gen. So this now produces 12volts. We do not run through the old ford resistor in the dash anymore. Fit 2 x 12volt to 6 volt resistors for the 2 electric gauges, available from Mac's Auto. Use a 12volt coil that requires an external resistor with it. Run a wire direct from the starter solenoid terminal that gets power when you push the start button, direct to the coil, also fit a one-way diode in this line ,( get the diode around the right way ! ), so no current can back feed from the coil to the starter solenoid. Run your normal coil wire through to the bottom terminal of the external resistor and then out of the top terminal to the coil terminal that is also where the one from the starter feed in. Run neg earth. All dizzy , cap, points, etc original. Points set to about .014 I think. Make sure you run new copper leads. Also we make a point of using an original condenser. So......this set up gives you 12volts to the dizzy on start up and as soon as you release the start button you are running about 9.5volts through the coil, so it does not heat up.This gives you big blue sparks and works every time. Remember do not file points, as this takes the contact surface off them, clean with a rag to take any furry stuff off. Coil is situated on the top L/H corner of the head off a bracket that bolts to the intake manifold bolt holes.( This is why new points always work best, because guys have not stuffed with them ) Makes sense to you ? :)

Thanks for the feed back Andrew and I appreciate your input but I am of the mind if it run before and worked it will still work 70 + years later
I think I am still prove of that but sometimes wonder!
the 6 volt system will be staying as it was original and why spend the dollars just to make someone else happy
I just had a foggy moment or day or two and forgot about the existing resistor and then put another 6 volt coil with an internal resistor on
so now the point voltage would be about 1.4 amps and a hell of a lot less when it got hot which I believe is the problem
Thanks again :thup2:

Check your fuel tanks for proper ventilation.