Progress...finally....
 

PROGRESS...... finally started re-assembly of the rear axle......

Doing the brake on the first side took me at elast 4 hours of assembly and re-assembly..... trying to sort out left side pieces form right side pieces.... then figuriongout the re-assembly sequence..... the other side.... took me less than an hour... of course I only had half the parts left.... and all for the same side.

Things like 1/4 inch U clips.... worth $2 each and not available for two weeks makes you go back to the parts box, spare axle etc. and clean up and straigthen a lot of small parts.

...but ain't she a beaut' new cylinders, new brake shoes and all painted in POR 15 Grey...... everything had been sandblasted even the nuts and bolts.


Picture is worth a 1000 words....

Progress...part two....
 

How to save your back when you are getting old......

Copying on Phil's back saver...... nothing like an overhead beam, truck and come-a-long.....

Gears were reset to take up back lash...... outside was sandblasted prior to de-assembly.... painted in POR 15... to be followed with a tie-coat of polyurethane and 3 + plus coats of OD.

Made my own gaskets with scissors and holepunch....gasket coated with black silicone gasket maker....very thin.

Brake drums have been turned and going on next....... see next posting on the elusive rear grease seals......

GOOD WORK!
 

Doctor Bob,

Excellent craftsmanship there...it is sure to last another 60 years.

WOW!! Looking good Bob, that sure's worth a 1000 words.

Cheers,

Stefan

Bob, kudos to you for sure. Nice to see someone that does a "proper" resto, not some half-assed piece of junk like so many out there. :salute:

I could sure do with a set of brakes like that, Bob.

Mine had sat for some time, probably with a good dose of moisture for good measure. Rust scale had formed on the brake shoes and the linings and had swollen, causing the shoes to lock on. After grinding away the adjusting bolt to release the bottom end of the shoes, the drum was still tight. Leaving the wheel bolted to the hub, I undid the wheel bearing and used a little "persuasion" to get the hub off.

That shouldn't be there!
 

The inside of the drum contained a Baked Bean tin full of crud, much of it being the remains of the tension spring and "small" adjustment cam. The backing plate and shoes are badly pitted and a lot of the small bits are completely gone.

As bad as the insides of the drum were, the bearings are immaculate! It seems the peculiar seal designs do their stuff well as the bearings were swimming in 1940's grease (that goo has a smell of it's own) and are pristine. Clean up and repack with new grease and they'll go back in. Or should I keep them for display? Timken bearings with ford part number and "Ford" script.

Interesting
 

That is a rusty mess, Tony although the cylinder would probably clean up with a sleeve. You're right about that '40s grease smell! Even the gear oil has a peculiar old aroma.
I suppose you'll have to scrap the drum... and I'm impressed at the ingenuity displayed with the jack. Fortunately I've never had one that bad.
Had the bearing nuts been attacked with a cold chisel in the past?

Re: Progress...finally....
 

Bob,

I traced your steps back to a reference made about trying to find a Canadian contact for a alternative to the isocyanate based POR-15. You had detected a paint prep named Zero-Rust, but there seemed to be some complications on getting it to this side of the 49th parallel.

I located the guy, Bruce Palmer if I remember correctly, and he says that he will be at the Milton, ON steam show on Labour Day. I shall stop by and see what delights he has.

Your efforts are producing some very good looking results.



Stewart

What a mess....
 

Hi Tony

Love your approach to the rusted brake drums.... I have hammerd a few and broken a few in the process... I like your idea better. I have been using old gas which I pour or spray in the drums by whatever opening I can find I was told it helps...???

I have a very large gear puller,,, for removing flywheels old one cyl gas engine... works nice.... put the whole set up under a lot of pressure using the impact gun to tighten the puller.... spary gas... wait... hammer the drum on the flat surface.. they pop just like popcorn.....

Having removed oil soaked drums and rusted dry drums... I will take the oily ones anytime.... stinky but a lot easier.


Stew..... I have been in touch with Bruce Palmer... very helpful and yes we have a distributor in the London area.... would not sell to me... had to got through an Ottawa Paint shop they recommended...... I have had limited experience with the Zero stuff to date.... plan on using it in the spray gun when I do the cab sheet metal...... personnaly I am impressed with POR 15.... deadly in spray form.... difficult to handle... must follow the recommended process... but BOY is it tuff!!!! I have sprayed it... outside... with a favorable breeze....wearing an expensive face mask...(no known mask is 100% effective on that stuff...... goggles...... a face shield.... a pillow case over my head... old clothes that I knew I would discard.....and stayed up wind...oh with surgical gloves covered with cheap cotton gloves.....

Bottom line once dry it will not comes off your skin or anything else until you wear it off... about 2 to 3 weeks in case of hand calluses... or nail cutticles.... on very smooth mating mechanical parts.... you can lift it off or I should say slice it off with a disposable carton cutter... the ones they won't let you carry on board aircrafts anymore......

Boob

Nope, everything in the grease was just like new. It looked as if it had never been opened up.

I had used this in the restoration of a mere 4wd vehicle years ago, and the pressure of the jack certainly released the stuck drum, but warped the wheel, giving a shimmy. I'm satisfied in this case the CMP wheel rim is sturdy to withstand the pressure. It came off smoothly with no broken drums or skinned knuckles from swinging a hammer. Would it also work on a front drum?