DOnt forget you anti freeze !
 

I was asked to go an look at a friends carrier yesterday as it had an oil leak, it actually leaked earlier this year but seeing as it was in storage he did not stress over getting it fixed. Well after we moved all the crap off the top of it, and i managed to get access to the engine bay i started to look for the leak. i was expecting to see that a rat had chewed through a rubber oil pipe or the like , but no sign of damage just a huge puddle of oil on the carrier floor and garage floor. so i dip the oil just to see how much is left. The dipstick came out covered in crusty red rust. conclusion, after a very very hard winter last year it cracked the block, dumped all the water in the sump ( oil pan for the coloinials amonst us ) and so pushing the oil out .

Its a real shame as i rebuilt the 24 stud engine about 8 years ago and has not done 500 miles since.

Now the hunt is on for a good rebuildable 24 stud block or a complete engine.

Any body know of one in the UK ?

This doesn't help you to find a new sump pan but I suspect the water entered the pan and pinholed the pan, letting the oil leak out. I've seen Chevs with this problem and I assume that rust worms don't discriminate.
Even if it isn't holed, you may want to coat the pan inside and out with POR-15 or similar to discourage further rusting.

Grant
 

Shaun ment that the sump filled with water, making the oil level(oil floats)rise up high, and over flows the oil (The oil could leak out at the rear main seal, sump breather, dipstick tube,etc)

There's a 24 stud one on eBay at the minute, £900 for a seized unit.

frosty
 

Yep, a few litres antifreeze prevention saves Pounds of cure. Or Dollars for us Colonials . . . :doh:

Michael
 

What is the gadget at lower left in your first picture please?

Lynn, that is the block drain pie , it attaches to the drain tap , there are 2 one either side of the block.

Ben thanks for the tip about ebay, i had seen that but its not the right block as im sure you are aware. but thanks anyway.

View From The Antipodes
 

Hi all you cold weather Carrier owners - personally if I were in your situation, instead of using anti-freeze, I would drain all the water out of the system, i.e. motor and radiator and then write a bloody big note to remind you to refill the system before use.

Bob

draing coolant
 

There is one problem of draining the block on a ford flattie the water pumps are guanteed to leak after being left dry for any period of time
take it from experience

Block drain pipes & mounting bracket
 

The mounting bracket aligns the two extensions tubes from the left and right side drain petcock(s). Once aligned, it allows the coolant to be drained through the single hull opening.

These bits are from an early 1944 build date Canadian Mk. II*, with the standard C81 221 CID engine block.

Well we checked one today.....
 

Just as a precaution after reading the email......

We checked Rob's HUP and registered only to 10 F ..... so he dosed up the radiator with more full strength green stuff....after taking some of it out and thoroughly conditioned his hands with sweet sticky antifreeze.

Need to check mine tomorrow.

Frosty is only around the corner.

First good snow freezing rain should be this Thursday ....... we have been lucky so far. Ground is not even frozen yet.....moved a traielr today and water puddles are only frozen 1/4 inch with 6 inches of liquid mud underneath.

Cheers.

Bob

Chevys Freeze Too
 

Hi Bob

I was just about to add the Chevys freeze and crack also. Below are some pictures of the original engine out of my Pattern 12. I weld all the cracks up just for fun to see if I could get them all water tight and I did getting the entire water jacket to hold pressure up to about 40 PSI. But I was actually worried about the structural soundness of the engine and replace the whole engine.

Cheers Phil