Installed the tail, brake and convoy lights the other day. The pictures don’t do justice for just how bright these LED’s are. Even from a 45deg view they stand out. I’ll be going with two brake and two tail lights. I realize the original only had one brake but to be safer I’ll go with two.

Only one brake light? Really like those bright lights.
 

Hi Jordan

I wholeheartedly agree that good visible brake lights are a necessary safety measure.

While the wiring diagram, in the manual, shows only one "STOP LAMP" two of my trucks 1945 HUP and 1942 Pattern 13 C60S appear to have been wired originally with two brake or stop lamps one each side.

So that rear of the HUP had two of the two light tail light brackets the drives side one has a toggle switch which turns off both tail lights (rear marker) turns on the black out or SUB LAMP which shines on the rear differential. The C60S has the sub lamp on the side of the frame in the form of push switch like the high low headlight switch
The brake light isolation switch is up on the dash.

When doing my first CMP wiring harness it was for my HUP which fortunately was very complete to copy, using the wiring diagram for the size and wire markings.

Cheers Phil

tail lights
 

I also use the LED bulbs but went a little further with magnetic tow truck tail lights, with turn signals. I can fold them up out of sight when on display. And they add lots of visual cues to anybody following.

All good ideas. The harness came with separate signal wires installed. So if I add extra lights the wires are already in place.

Today was a full day spent in the shop. I made up the tray and cover for the Chorehorse generator. It was mounted on the left cab step. The Chorehorse is also mounted on a sliding plate so it can be dismounted. However it is my belief that it was intended to be run while on the cab step.

Yesterday and part of today was a sewing day. I made up the canvas that fits between the radiator and the cowl. This was my first time using a treadle sewing machine. I don’t really have the foot rhythm down but I managed to get everything sewn. I also had to make up some stiffened burlap to go between the layers of canvas. I used carpenters glue and water. It seemed to work very well to match the originals.

And the big task for the afternoon was getting the cowl assembly back on the truck. I added all of the anti squeaking strips beforehand. The cowl fit very well and only needed some gentle persuasion to get all the bolt holes to line up. Next up will be hooking up all the electrical wires and lights.

Are you going to dip her tyres in some water on the 6th, Jordan?


David

Possibly, but if I do it will be close to home.

Well the DDay drive didn’t happen due to some home renovations going on. But it did go for a small drive yesterday. There is some ongoing timing and hard starting issues that will be looked at this week.

Timing issues have all been sorted out thanks to the assistance of another MLUer. Turns out the main issue is that the securing bolt for the distributor had come loose and the whole unit spun out of timing. The carburetor also seems to be running a bit rich and will be looked at in due time.

Now onto the latest task. Wood working for making the WS19 battery boxes. A lot of new skills are being learned in the past day but thankfully the internet has some awesome tutorials on jig making. One thing to say.....I can’t believe the mess working with wood makes.

Makes good mulch or compost for the garden, Jordan.

David

I use it to soak up oil spills.

David

Took the truck out for some better pictures today.

The rest of today’s pictures.

Excellent work.
 

Jordan,

That truck looks great - you did a great job!

I better get up to see it live.


Stewart

PS - that is a nice looking canvas top!

Thanks Stewart.

Yes that lady did a fantastic job on those covers you had made years ago.

Awesome is the only word that comes to my mind looking at your pictures Jordan !

Battery box project is moving along nicely.

And then this happened a few days ago. Another milestone hit for this truck.

No excuses?
 

Congratulations - that is the final hurdle.

Now you can parade to your hearts content!

Well done.

:thup2:

Took the truck out for its first good road drive. It handles great with no wobbles and stops fantastically. I did have two issues with it. Number one was my speedometer went haywire and started spinning all over the place. I’m not sure if the cable was binding up in the outer casing or if the speedometer itself has issues. The second issue I had was the temperature gauge going up over 220 degrees. The radiator is a new core and the engine block was totally flushed out. I’m thinking I’ll check for any restrictions near the thermostat. When I stopped off at a friends farm I left the engine idling. When I left about 6min later the temp was down to 170. By the time I got home it was up around 210 or so.

About the speedometer
 

Hi Jordan

On the speedometer try loosening the cable nut on the back of the speedometer. My HUP with late style dash the speedometer doesn't like having the cable nut tight been that way since got it 40 years ago. Same problem with three different speedometers, if nut on cable is tight I think it loads the bearing on the little cup inside just enough so it rubs and makes the needle jump around. Loosening it a half to full turn seems to solve the problem.

One speedometer I had to replace spun up so hard that it rapped the needle around the limit pin.

On the thermostat did you say this was a new or old one and did we discuss exercising thermostats before installing?

Also do you have the steam relief valve open or closed? With my trucks I've found I get more accurate and quicker response from from the temperature gauge if the steam relief valve is just barely open, it helps the coolant flow up through the fittings and passed the sender.

Great work on your truck, I've really enjoyed following your progress.

Cheers Phil

Curious about the heat. It seems to be under load and OK when at an idle. Blockage? Timing? Rich mixture (what do the plugs look like)? I've had that problem with Fords but have a hard time getting Chevs up to a working temperature. I look forward to hearing what the cause is. Is rad fluid making it to the overflow can? Why is the can on the outside?

Phil.

Ok thanks for the tips on the speedometer. I’ll check the nut on it.

My steam relief tube does not have any shut off. It’s always open.

Bruce,
Yes this was while it was under load. If it idles for about 10min the temp comes down to around 180. Then after about 10 min of driving it’s climbed back up to over 210. There is a chance it may have an air bubble in the system. Part of me wonders if the water pump is spinning too fast at the higher end and there is some cavitation going on or I’ve got a blockage somewhere. All things to investigate.

I do not yet have the radiator overflow can hooked up.

I would question the thermostat and then the gauge itself.

David

The 'how long can you keep your hand on the rad tank' test...when the gauge is in doubt. If it's really running at 220 you'll know pretty fast. Because of where the temp gauge is on a carrier and the difficulty in reading it I often resorted to checking the temp with my left hand on the upper tank.

Hmmmm now that I think about, I’m pretty sure I got the temperature gauge from you years ago. Lol :doh:

Warranty expired in 1944...

Temperature
 

I learned to drill a small hole in the thermostat to allow some leakage and the release of any trapped air. If you are running a 216 you might try loosening the temperature sender and make sure that there is no trapping air under it.

Thanks Harry, Ill take a look at that too.


Bruce......dang :whinge