Jordan , in your post about the Bonnet catches you show 2 NOS ones , did you notice that they are Ford produced ones ? the Chevrolet versions are not so far folded round .

I’ve never noticed a difference in them.

I thought I’d compare the truck windshield to the armoured window for the Otter. Just a slight difference in size.

I also made up the last throttle linkage I needed. Now just to do all the minor adjustments. Lastly the gas pedal got a new pivot pin as well the old one was non existent. I’ll hopefully have this all sorted out tomorrow.

I’m trying to sort out the clutch linkage. Where does the clutch arm return spring hook onto? I’m guessing the spring should be pulled towards the front of the truck?

Also, at the pedal end. Is there a return spring hooking onto the clevis pin like brake pedal?

I’ve adjusted the pedal and linkage as per the manual, however I feel there should be a return spring or two somewhere in here.

I don't think one was intended......
 

....BUT GM did sell a civilian after market clutch rattle spring device that fitted at the other end to keep the linkage slightly tighter.

The Clutch springs should be enough to bring the pedal back but no harm will come if you do install a somewhat weak spring from the clevis to front frame.

Will you have it out for New Years day??????

Bob C

I’m thinking I’ll need one. With the 1” free play, I’m finding the pedal wants to drop towards the toe board. If I adjust so there is no drop the throw out bearing is up tight against the clutch fingers.

As for New Years.........well will see. I don’t want to rush things just to hit that date. I still need to install the propeller shafts, rear axle shafts and sort out the exhaust pipe.

Got the clutch pedal all sorted out. I found the weight of the pedal was pushing it down causing the throw out bearing to reconnect on the clutch finger springs. Once the spring was installed there was the textbook free play achieved with the push of my fingers. I forgot to take a picture of the springs. Will do that another time.

Also for the time I had today, I got the first propellor shaft installed between the transmission and the transfer case. All new mounting hardware was used along with new universal joints. The shouldered bolts were made from cut down grade 8 7/16 bolts. These gave the correct length of shoulder to match the originals.

Here is a picture of the other spring I added.

hmmm
 

I didn't notice previously but on mine that green spring is attached to the brake pedal and the clutch has a spring as i described directly on the clutch fork.

Ok thanks all for the advice on the clutch fork spring. There is a hole on the master cylinder metal mount that will work for the other end of the spring.


This afternoons project was to work on the exhaust pipe and muffler. I picked up a NOS muffler and exhaust pipe awhile back. However this pipe must have been for longer chassis as I had to cut out a section so the muffler would sit on the frame mount for it.

One question I do have, What is supposed to be used to seal the gap between muffler end and the exhaust pipe where the pipe slides into the muffler? Hopefully I have explained that clear enough to make sense.

Who says it needs to be sealed?????
 

.....it is meant to muffle not to silence the engine......so you have less back pressure while doing 45 mph downhill with not tarp and a tailwind.......

You will not hear the engine above the gears whining....... front end shaking.....clutch linkage rattling....., fan moaning, doors squeaking , windshield whistling and Vicky yelling SLOW DOWN.....

You have to start it at least on New Years Day................ hey I drove mine on the front driveshaft for months until I had a rear one made..... then found the original in a corner of the shed......

Cheers and Happy New Years to you and Vicky Victrola or is it Victoria......!!!

Happy New Years to you as well.

I made up a sleeve today that has sealed up that spot very well. I’m thinking I might go visit the exhaust shop next week and see about getting a new pipe and muffler made up in stainless.

I’ll see if Vicki is up for it. The truck still has a few things I want to do before driving it. I was hopeful I’d get them done this past eeek but that hasn’t happened.

that down pipe will last for years , be careful with stainless steel , it will not get rid of the heat as quickly as steel , therefore your manifold will get hotter , and distort.
I have an exhaust with silencer for years on my CGT now , and still performs well .

One rear axle shaft installed. NOS gasket used along with a thin smear of silicone. I also used brand new tapered washers since most of the originals were broken. The green shaft end will be getting painted later. I just used what was handy when the POR was curing so that the top coat of paint could chemically bond.

Working on installing the exhaust system. I got the tail pipe bent up today and it should be getting installed tomorrow. I’m also playing around with putting this POL can carrier on the truck. It was used on the larger ones. I like the idea of being able to use the 2 gallon cans I’ve been picking up over the years.

Finished making up the muffler and tail pipe hangers today.

Thais to the help of another MLU’er, I made up the two battery box mounting trays for the back of the truck. I still need to add a few small things but all the big work is done. I also tried one out to see how it looks with the battery box in place. Lastly I installed the tail pipe and hanger bracket.

I got a nice package from John Bizal of Midwest Military today in the mail. Brand new made flexible fuel lines.

How many????
 

two for the selector valve.....

two for the frame mounted fuel filter and one just before the pump?????

Am I correct??

I used fuel lines for Jeeps some from de Bella some from Brian A.

On New Years day roll out, I discovered that one of my fuel tank cap was off and dangling from the chain.......how much evaporated is a mystery but will need to suck out the remaining gas for parts washing and refill in the Spring.

Cheers

Three for the fuel tank selector valve and one at the fuel pump.

I’ll be remaking my hard lines tomorrow. Somehow I made them from 5/16” tube when the manual clearly calls for 1/4” tube. Not sure how I mixed that up but oh well.

Well I never did get to making up the hard lines. Other events called me away for a few hours. But I did get three of the flex lines installed on the change over switch. When I was removing the elbow from one of the fuel tanks it cracked the pickup tube off the tank. Thankfully it was an easy fix. Everything was re-soldered into place. It was interesting to see just how this piece was made and functioned.

They aren’t the best pictures. However I did finally get the hard lines made up and installed this afternoon. Now I just to sort out the route for the hard line from the fuel filter to the fuel pump. Does the line come down into the chassis or stay up with the cab frame?

fuel filter
 

I have only ever seen the fuel filter mounted inside the frame, drivers side between transfer case and bellhousing cross member.

It maybe a later production improvement
 

Hi Harry

My 1942 Pat 13 C60S has the fuel filter inboard of the frame rail, pain to remove and clean. My 1945 Pat 13 HUP has it mounted outboard of the frame with a hole through floor which makes it real easy to drop the filter out or to pull drain plug.

I think there are some service bulletins on the location.

Cheers Phil

Phil, On your HUP where do you run the fuel line from the filter to the fuel pump? My filter is the same as yours on the outside of the frame.

Not much of anything has been done on the truck since January as the shop isn’t heated. However yesterday I did fire up the engine for the first time since I installed it. Things went very well and it runs great. I’ve got a few little things to sort out such as switching over the wires on the ammeter (when I honk it shows a charge). I also have a small drip coming from my oil guard line at the union above the engine.

Anyways enjoy the YouTube videos. They aren’t Hollywood quality but better then the high school specials. :thup2:

https://youtu.be/jn8E1ceLJM4

https://youtu.be/92aZhmHNGBM

Nice milestone to reach, Jordan. Congratulations!

Transmitting from the back of her next?

David

I'll dig out some photos
 

Hi Jordan

I'll dig out some photos showing the original routing, I made some minor changes when I added an electric fuel pump.

Enjoyed your video, it is great when you get to this point in the restoration. When I was doing my HUP the engine had been well run in on test stand and then I painted the engine and installed it in the HUP and it would not run period. At first it would not even crank over, took a while then I realized that the paint was a good insulator. Little cleaning and adding a heavy ground strap from the chassis to the engine and things started to work and it started.

Cheers Phil

Thanks for the compliments. As for transmitting from the back.. well that will still be awhile.

Yes Phil I to had the issues with over painted parts. I picked up a brand new heavy duty 6v battery from a supplier the other day and then when I hooked it all up nothing. I even put in the external toothed washers to give me a better connection. Still nothing. Then it dawned on me, too much paint. :doh: So a sanding drum in the Dremel and i cleaned off the paint where the main ground goes. Hooked it all up and voila the engine cranked over nicely and it fired up once I gave it some gas.

I also added another ground from the bottom of the starter down to a chassis cross member. Conveniently there was a bolt hole on the cross member. Ill be adding a few more grounding straps as I do find they work very well. Plus this truck, being a wireless one seems to have been covered in them.

found the proper hole
 

In taking apart my latest project and pulling parts off that i haven't before I spotted the hole in the brake M/C bracket that anchors the clutch spring .. didn't know it was there. I'll check my other trucks to see what i did.