Often a name change will be a way to raise prices. Old product will remain for a short while at the lower price until exhausted while the new product sits there for a bit more money.

Personally, I have never use the tie primer. I catch the paint when it is slightly tacky, and I get good adhesion as well as a transfer of some of the hardening properties. But it is very dependant on timing...too early and you get cracking/crazing on the new paint.

Finally got the windshields done and installed. The glass was sealed in with black exterior caulking. This should stop any issues with water getting in between the frames and glass. I also put in new rubber seals along the outside edges. Lastly the rebuilt wiper motors were installed with NOS wiper arms and blades.

FYI, the wiper motor lobes face downward and you seem to have the right wiper blade pointing the wrong way. They should both 'rest' inwards.

The later wiper motors were installed this way. Notice the indent on the frame. Photo is from a previous post by Phil Waterman

After looking over some photos I see what you mean about the resting position of the arms. I’ll get that switched.

I finished up getting the hood, grill and nose all painted up in POR today. The new made panel fitted up perfectly into the nose.

Big thanks to a fellow MLU’er for taking the time to draw up the nose shroud for me. I’m now able to make a brand new one. I managed to make up the top and bottom parts today.

I also took advantage of the very nice weather today and got all the nose parts sprayed that lovely light hue colour.

The nose/cowl shroud is coming along nicely. I finished cutting out and bending up the two side panels today. Now I just need to do some final fitting and welding them up.

Sandblasted and all welded together. Now to get it welded into the nose and painted.

Nice work on the shroud Jordan. :thup:

Alex

It only took 5402 days or 14 years, 9 months and 16 days to bring these parts home. From a post on the this very forum way back in January 2005 to last night is the time it took to track down and get these original Wire3 storage bins here. A huge huge thanks to Stewart Loy and to Rob Love for helping in the transport. It always amazes me just how helpful others are in this great hobby. And to think the bins were made in Brantford during the war.

Your persistence has paid off, well done!

Would love to see your WIRE-3 after it is finished.

H.

Happy to have been able to help you out, just as many on this forum have helped me over the years.

Rob, I appreciate it to no end. Same for Stewart and Machine Gun Mary

Today’s task was to get the rebuilt transmission mounted to the engine. The resurfaced flywheel went back on after I found the bolt locking tabs. Then the brand new clutch disk and rebuilt pressure plate went in. I picked up a plastic alignment tool off of amazon for pretty cheap. This made the job super easy. Luckily the tool also fits my MB Jeep. Lastly the transmission was lined up and installed. The engine hoist came to the rescue to hold it in position until I could get everything lined up. Also in the mix but I missed taking a picture was the new throw out bearing.

output flange
 

Make sure you remove the output flange and insert the bolts front to back before hooking up the short shaft to the transfer case., and make sure there is a collar or ring on the shaft first.

Output flange and test run trans
 

Hi Jordan


Observation if you run the engine on the test stand with the transmission in gear the output flange needs to be in place, or you will have puddle of gear lube on the floor. Yup I found this out first hand.


Edit--Found the picture.
Attachment 110055

I was surprised at how quickly it tried to basically pump the gear lube out of the transmission sort of explains why this rear seal is a source of leaks. My output shaft had a grove worn it to so it got a speedisleeve. Also the special washer and nut that hold the output flange in place got a little gasket cement.


Cheers Phil

I don’t understand what your message is about? I can insert the bolts into the flange easily with it mounted?

What collar/ring are you referring to?

Spacer
 

Hi Jordan


Here is the spacer I think is at issue. It goes between the output flange and the rear bearing. It slides along the splines to be pushed in all the way.


Attachment 110056


Cheers Phil

Transmission ring
 

Exactly that ring Phil. I couldn't find the old posting I made about that very subject. and You must put the correct bolts on the flange before tightening it up to the output shaft. if you put them in the other way you will smash the bearing retainer all to hell.

Yes it has the spacer ring already installed. I did the other year when I rebuilt the transmission. The bolts fit in just fine with the flange installed in the transmission.

clearance
 

this shows how close the clearance is and the other shows the ring and a bearing retainer after either leaving the ring out or installing the bolts rear to front.

The bolts holding the universal to the pinion can give grief either way round. If installed with head toward transmission and they loosen a bit the head can strike the bolt holding the rear cover in place and cause the damage shown. If installed head to the rear, the nut can strike if it works a bit loose. There is no perfect solution. Just use good bolts, well torqued with new lock washers, Loctite, self locking nuts (distorted type, not nylon locking) (maybe Loctite plus a mechanical lock - you can always use heat or other violence to take it apart).
There are a lot of damaged rear transmission covers / bearing retainers out there.

I’ve ordered a Speedi Sleeve for the output shaft. It had some minor groving that probably wouldn’t cause any issues for a while. But with everything being out and easily accessible I decided to put one on. Hopeful it shows up tomorrow and I can get that reinstalled.


On another task I Finally got the junction strips finished. The three on the left were what remained of the originals from the truck. The bright orange one is the modern reproduction. No one makes the proper wartime Canadian style. So I did what was next best alternative. Took them apart and sprayed them in flat black paint. Now they look the part.

I also fixed an outer headlamp ring. Now I’ve got both that I needed. The upper clip had broken and also separated from the ring. The original on this sample was made from brass and that’s what I made a new one from. It was then soldiered in place.

Finished off the engine cover inspection plates. The originals had asbestos lining in them to help with heat/noise reduction in the cab. I used meta aramid felt in its place. It is rated to 700 deg Fahrenheit. Plus it looks like the old asbestos sheeting. It was very easy to cut with a good pair of scissors

? Meta-Aramid=Nomex?
Do you have recommended sources who had suitable thickness available for sales/shipping to/within Canada? McMaster sells an Aramid/Fiberglass blend fabric at about $15US/square foot (in .110" thickness 600 degree rating) but refuses to ship to Canada or sell to those who they think will export to Canada (though a local fastener supplier seems to have an account with McMaster, maybe they can order for me).

Felt store.
 

Grant,

I was interested in meta aramid (nomex) felt for another project and found it at thefeltstore.com.

They have a Canadian distribution network, and offer 5 square feet of 1/8th inch material for $14.54. That seemed about right.


Stewart

As Stewart mentions. The Felt Store Canada sells it. That’s where I bought it from.

Thank you, both of you.
A quick look shows thefeltstore.com as cheaper, higher temperature rated and willing to ship to/from Canada. Sounds like a good deal all round. I wonder if it is also rodent repellant/resistant? Now to measure, make patterns, buy and install.

Not sure if both were insulated. I've seen both types and assumed it was insulted for the manifold side and not for the other. But it could be an early/late thing too.