Parts
 

Today I also ordered some parts, two twin row water pumps $400, A fuel pump $80 and the five engine mounts $150 for the cab and engine.
Its only money they say.... that was a $650+ dent.

Our dollar is falling in value (again) against the green-back so price of parts is 25% more per USD. A lot different form some years back when it was parity.

I also have had a new rear crossmember folded up $41!! locally. I have etch primed it just for rust preventing, and I'll measure and drill all of the support and rivet holes in the near future ready for re-riveting.

Does anyone know if there is a MACs supplier in the UK? Postage from the USA is stupidly expensive.

Cheers,
Ian

Try
 

TCR Carponents Bayswater in Melbourne are MACs agents Ian.

Ph no. is 03 97616706

Thedinga is located in the Netherlands - see http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25575

Maybe you could give him a try?

HTH,
Hanno

Yes Tony,
TCR helped free many moths from my wallet yesterday :), They dont carry the specific parts I need so I guess MACs and USPS are going to be making a killing.

I might give them a ring and see if they can do me a one-off import again, we get copped GST!! :mad:

Cheers,

Ian

Thanks Hanno,

Problem for me....an English speaker... is that the webpage doesnt recognise Part numbers and I can't read the directions and I am too old to want to learn another language.

I'll probably use TCR or MACs Directly.

Cheers,

Ian

Ford parts
 

Hi Ian,
Ajays may be of some help to you.
The Aussie dollar is worth more than ours as well.
Their web site : http://www.fordv8parts.com/
Disclaimer : I have no connection with Ajays.
Cheers, Terry

Ian,

Mr. Thedinga is old school: send him an email with your wants list and see if he can help (or even surprise) you?

Regards,
Hanno

Hatch on..
 

Moving on with the hatch hole, I had some more real steel folded up and replaced the holey edge. Its a double seam so I had to make the best of a bad part. It should last another 70 years.

Last but not least was a new sunvisor bracket a little different to original as its an L not just a bit of steel welded to the roof. Took me a little while to find a suitable piece of metal.

I think I am turning the corner on this job now. FINALLY.

A bit of finality
 

Just Dressed up the welds and welded in the sunvisor bracket. Primed in zinc ready for prepping now.

Last picture shows the marked improvement.

SO satisfying.

Cheers,

Ian

Sunvisor
 

Here they are, but you need the bracket
http://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v...ommercial.html

Bracket is here yes you have to buy two.. :( :http://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v...uck-black.html

Cheers,

Ian

Rear Cross member
 

The Car Carrier had to pick up a vehicle I had sold. Opportunity of an afternoon off from work.... so make hay while the sun shines. Four rivets were holding me back. A new drill bit and some steady pressure made quick work.

As you can see its a waaaaay bit bent. The two re-enforcing plates are also bent :( so four more rivets and I'll get them out and press them straight I guess.

Hardest was the spring bracket ones as I couldnt get the drill 100% straight. By the look of the rivet holes it was the same in 1942. :p

I really didnt think that there was that much distortion in the section until I laid it next to the new one.. almost 2".

The new piece is about 1/2" wider so I can trim it to the correct width after confirming my measurements.

I'll mark up all of the holes and use a drill press to set them straight. Oh and I will note ALLLLLL the measurements and make a proper drawing for the future.

Cheers,

Ia

A few more pix
 

You can see the distortion and this is after I put in my press to get it straight enough to take the measurements.

Cheers,

Ian

measurements
 

Having a small window I'll try and post the measurements.

These are off the original part, so not symmetrical. One wonders what they were doing in 1942!!

Agree or not, these are from the cross member transposed to a new piece.

Cheers,

Ian

I had a visitor walk into my workshop today.
He used my ancient radial arm drill, and left it in a much cleaner condition than he found it......he is such a nice bloke. :thup2:


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4153/...a7a5e2b3d3.jpgDSCN0268 by john smith, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4256/...d0c4f80b7f.jpgDSCN0269 by john smith, on Flickr

rivets
 

If you need some tips on how to hot rivet the replacement cross member in, ask aj.lec ( Andrew) he is a wizz on the riveting :smoker:

Cold day but warm rewards
 

Been busy with a myriad of life items so progress has slowed a little.

My engine mounts arrived and some other parts,=. But we're in the crossmember so here goes.

I spent a bit of time straightening the reinforcing plates in my press. A fair bit of work and about an hour each. The results speak for themselves.

Ron's Shop
 

Well I arrived around 10:00 and Ron showed me his 'small' drill press and the smaller version out of picture.
After a quick brief Ron leaped out to his Alvis not to be seen again for some time. I was left to my own devices and after drilling all of the pilot holes I set to task.

The results are just brilliant and I had to check all my lines about five times in disbelief I was making a reproduction part for my truck that was exact. (error by manufacturer and all :eek:).

It look great and thanks Ron for the use of the drill.

More on riveting soon.

Cheers,

Ian

Trial Fit
 

Well at the end of a very cold week, I managed to trial fit the new piece.

Very happy so far, just wondering how much the chassis will spread when I take off the RHS welded to the top. :confused

Photobucket
 

Well it got the 'bucket' today so I will endeavor to get all of the photos resized and back up.

cheers,

Ian

Weekend work
 

Well Some more progress over the last few weeks. As I had a run in with photobucket I deleted my account.

I did some sandblasting and prepped a lot of small hardware. Trouble is, the more you do, the more you find.

I removed the temporary brace and the 1/4" rivet misalignment has become about 1/16" ordered additional rivets but they are too small so I'll have to make up some with steel rod.

I bought a 'toy' oxy propane kit which is pretty useless. If it doesnt heat the rivets hot enough I will have to get a proper Oxy Acetelene kit for riveting.

For the eagle eyed- yes there are two Jeep body parts on the table. :)

Cheers,

Ian

I have a spare oxy/acet at home.....May be be even another spare one at work with gas in the bottles.
I also have a spare high power burner to match.
A mechanic's round and large pry bars should sort out alignment and maybe tapered reamers.
Got that too.
Come to think of It I have plenty of Oxy/ acet gear because I have gone to Oxy/LPG as it saves costs and bottle rental.........Rarely use the Oxy much these days because of plasma cutter etc........Just borrow my normal gear from work.
You know where I am and can be bribed with beer.

Paint Well I tried.
 

Its been about 18C for about 10 minutes here each day. I need to paint my cab so I can free up the garage. Today I bit the bullet and started but alas, some runs and horrible horrible silicone fish eyes in the paint. My own fault as I forgot I had used silicone to undo the cab bolts (on the threads) so I'll have to clean and sand it all down again. All in all a 7/10 type of day.

Yep You're on Ron! I'll see how I go next weekend otherwise real Oxy might be necessary. :thup2:

Ian, sorry to hear that Photobucket surprised you as well as millions of other users. If you still have the pics you can edit your posts and re-attach them. The forum software resizes photos to a certain extent, but if your pictures are too large you will get a message your "token has expired" or somesuch. Then resize your picture and try again.

HTH,
Hanno

Phtobucket restoration
 

Yes, Hanno I have the photos, but I am slowly going through all of my back ups on CD's and also replacing them on a few sites.

Having 12,000 odd photos extorted by a company left me no choice than to close the account. Sadly its many people's loss, but Photobucket is the biggest loser.

Cheers,

Ian

How did you form those drip rails?

Hi Ian,

Will look forward to reading how you form the rivet heads for your project.
My same rear crossmember has some wastage on it and a long term project is to someday replace that with a good donor crossmember I salvaged.

I saved one of the original donor crossmember rivets as a sample as per attached photo.
The dimension may be out a bit due to deformation as the rivet is driven but that was the diameter (inches) of the shank of the rivet as miked after removing all rust.

If you, or anyone else, ever find a supplier of the correct round head rivets please let me know.

Cheers,

Hi Ian,

Further to previous post:

Just checked my Bible, "Machinery's Handbook" and found American Standard and British Standard dimensions for small solid rivets.

American Standard call them Button Head and my best estimate is they are a 3/8" shank diameter as the shank tolerances are 0.375" to 0.380" Allowing for slight deforming when being driven, that would account for the larger diameter as measured. I can also see a slight taper from under the head to where it was ground off on my sample which indicates a smaller initial diameter.

I measured the diameter of the shop head and at 0.675" I would say it is an American Standard, and not a British Standard rivet. American Standard 3/8” Button Head diameter tolerances 0.646” to 0.684”
Maximum rivet head diameter for a British Standard 3/8" shank Snap Head rivet is 0.656", a fair bit smaller.

I can post all the dimensions on a sketch of the shop head if you would like them.

Cheers,

Very hard to find round head in Australia , mostly tapered and usually only up to 5/16
Last batch I bought I got out of the USA
Blacksmith Bolt and Rivet Supplies
BlacksmithBolt.com
PO Box 80830
Portland Oregon 97280

Good to deal with
Reasonable price on rivets but transport is a shocker back to Australia. Makes for expensive rivets. Can make your own but hard to stop them expanding the diameter under the new head

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/at...3&d=1237691303

Are you after 3/8 or 1/2 inch and how many ?
:cheers:

Button Head rivets
 

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for that source of Button Head rivets in the USA. I only want a dozen of the 3/8" ones so they would work out very expensive.
Bit of a cold day here so not being in the shed I drew up the sketch of a 3/8" Button Head rivet to pass the time. May be of some interest to fellow restorers.

Courtesy of my 1966 edition of "Machinery's Handbook".

Cheers,