No they are made of timber. But a one ton ute? I do know there is a demand.

Nice work.
 

Those are some really good looking mufflers and pipes. Must be great to have all the tools you need. Keep up the beautiful work.

All I can say is WOW :cheers:

Yes Jon, having the tools and equipment is the main part of it and a good workshop of course.
Thankyou Dave but the above sentence is the answer! :thup2:
I gave the underside a lick of green prior to overturning as it just makes sense and the cammo part that is behind the wheel station. In fact the complete double bogie is done in the light stone according to the book.
As I was about to fit the diff I noticed that the spacer plate was missing and I never had a spare so I borrowed one and reproduced one. I guess I should have done two but that's life. :rolleyes

The diff is in place with some bolts in. I'll finish that part tomorrow. :)

True but without the skills and the vision to use the tools at hand they are kind of useless

Having the knowledge to install the mufflers before reattaching the differential is almost as good as knowing to install the cross tube rollers before the cross tube. To say nothing of the speed change linkage under the cross tube. Dare I mention the hull exhaust castings angled in the correct direction... :bang:
Nice work Colin. Thank-you for posting with pictures. Now, about that UC MK-I* hull . . .

I had to remove my diff as I forgot to install the spacers but all good now. Stripped the backing plates and installed them that is after they were blasted and painted. the shoes will go in on Monday to get reshod and the drums machined.
I also have fully refurbished the cam, followers and the bearings. The side rollers were installed as well. Doesn't look like a lot but I'm quite happy with my effort today. :)
Colin.

The re enactors had the meeting at my place and did their normal drill practice and my little boy Andrew thought he'd join in. He actually did very well so a bit of discipline is good for kids.
While my brake drums are away getting machined and the shoes rebonded I prepped the wheel stations for the springs.

All on and I had to make a new spring compressor as the other one was partially stripped out and they are far to dangerous to take chances with but all good. They are ready to take the wheels. :)

You never muck around do you Colin. Andrew has grown as well.
Great work! :salute:

Hi Lynn, yes I do muck around sometimes and Andrew definitely is growing but not as fast as Alex is:blink: :)
I had a pair of cut down front guards that came off this hull that I was going to discard but I decided to repair with some period steel I had. The bend is a piece of 150dia pipe and I just kept bending it around until I achieved the correct angle.

Anyway they are repaired, Painted and fitted. I started to put my wheels back on and I will be doing the brakes tomorrow as I got my newly machined drums and new bonded brake shoes today. It should be ready to turn over on the weekend. I'm relatively happy with my progress.

Your moving right along and should be done in no time :thup2:

Excellent work! :note:

Looks awesome! I'm enjoying the progress pics. Having the hull "belly up" is a genius move in getting the exhaust and diff fitted with minimum fuss.

I look forward to your next post.

Matt.

It's on its side now which again very easy to install the steering and gear linkage. Also much better to paint the inside. As it has been raining all day I didn't want to take it outside and use my crane so I used the overhead gantry and I might say that it is probably on its limit. I do rely heavily on my forklift so between the two of them it was a smooth operation. :)

I needed to make the cam cover so I decided to make a few extras

You do need a panbrake folder to do these.

You also need a milling machine as well.

I have done my floor plate and have made some of the Vickers ammo and parts floor holders.

I would assume that these would also be in the NZ carriers as well.

SA rail
 

The vicker's box mount in a SA carrier are the same but very different .

My gear change was 90 deg out so it is by far better to cut the pipe, bevel and reweld. Apart from being a quick repair, drilling new holes at 90 deg only leaves about 30% of material left. This way you are still using exactly the same holes. The front it almost complete apart from the clutch and accelerator rods and the cover.

The front is just about complete. I just made a few steering rods and some other work in the engine area.

I had a good pattern of the other cam plate cover which also incorporates the battery base holder. These parts are made out of 3mm.

The other side of the battery base is now made and welded in place.
All the mounting blocks for the fuel tank supports were pretty ordinary so the easiest way is to cut them all off, make new ones and weld them in.

Here I made a set of press tooling to make the clutch and accelerater tunnel cover. I have 1 reasonable one left but I am going to keep this as a pattern.
This is just the bottom part of the die.

The top part is the easy bit although it was handy to find the right size pipe. The bottom part was a tail shaft that I sliced down the centre and the top pipe was an old hydraulic cylinder and that was real good because they are usually quite thick and you do need a bit of strength to press the metal.

Here's another press tool I prepared earlier. this one does the tightish bend at the bottom of the fuel tank brackets