You bloody little ripper
 

Robert
This photo is like water to a very thirsty baboon. Thanks a Gazillion!!!! Would like to see shots of the rear pipe from master cylinder,& its exact location on the cross member to the bracket at the back if you can. And anything of the fuel lines. I know that'll take a few photos so I'll owe you.

Location
 

Tony, the fuel lines come from each fuel tank, along the chassis (held by clips) up under the cab with a curl to minimise the effect of vibration, to the fuel cock under the floor. From there the single line goes to the fuel filter and then to the fuel pump. Sections of the fuel lines are covered with a sleeve of woven material which you can still buy. You slide it on before making the flares.
Another thing to note is the bundy tube for the brakes and fuel is the same size. As long as you have access to a double flaring tool these are not too expensive to make and you're able to buy all the parts, bundy tube, nuts and covering (which the vintage wiring harness people here in Melbourne import) brand new. Even the brake hoses can be made new which is a good idea of course.
Renewing all these components is a good thing to do because you never know what internal corrosion the original pipes may have.
Because of the differences between cab 12/13 the pics Robert takes of the fuel lines on my cab 12 should be helpful. I'll see what I have taken.

the curly bit
 

This pic is form when I was disassembling the F15 but it illustrates the anti-vibration curl as well as the original covering for the pipes (which was used only on fuel lines).

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12508898150001

Fuel filter plumbing
 

And this (on a cab 13) is how the input/output goes at the fuel filter. Note the covering does not go all the way to the end of the pipes.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12508898240001

One more for the moment
 

This (again on a F15 wreck) illustrates the clips used to secure the fuel line to the chassis, in this case the step bracket.

http://gallery.me.com/oldcmp.net/100...12508898540001

Tony: more H2O for the thirsty ape.
Master cylinder to crossmember
Along crossmember
Through chassis to front wheel flexible pipe.

Last 3 photos of break pipes.
Turning back along chassis
Rear end looking back from under gearbox (poor focus sorry)
Rear end from under back.
I carn't get fuel pipe shots for you as all fuel pipes and filters have been removed and a hose run under the engine cover to the pasenger foot well where it must have been put into a jerry can when it was last used.

A thing of beauty, isn't it?
 

The pair of brake pipes running across the gearbox cross member are secured with a double clip at the centre.
And the large-ish pipe you can see is the rubber vacuum hose for the brake booster.
It's interesting to see what a thorough job was done when it was painted deep bronze green by the army. They certainly got into all the nooks and crannies.

Incidentally this is as far as I can remember the only cab 12 I have seen in that colour (indicating extended post-war use). They are of course normally seen in very faded khaki, sometimes with a camouflage colour underneath the top coat.

It's not at all unusual to find cab 13s in this colour, particularly specialist vehicles such as wireless signals, tippers, workshop and gun tractors.

Has anyone else come across a cab 12 in deep bronze green?

Brake Brass block
 

Hi Tony

Do you have the brass spliter block that goes on the rear of the master cyclinder?? It has three outlets for all the brake lines to connect into. I have a spare one if you require it. I also ended up with a couple of spare master cylinder's and the mounting bracket's if anyone needs them.

Tim Scriven

G'Day All
Tony is in Sydney for work training. Don't expect a reply from him until Friday night... However, on behalf of GT, Thanks for your replys & help!
HH

I'm back
 

Sorry chaps! Im back. Apologies for the delay in transmission.

Thanks Tim, I do have one of those splitter blocks you're refering to. VERY grateful for the kind offer however.

Keith & Robert can't thank you enough! INVALUABLE to say the least. Seems I may make some progress this weekend.

One question, Ive got a dirty big bit of angle iron welded behind that last chassis cross brace (towards the back) is it part of the old winch assy or is it a genuine Holgate accessory??

Angle
 

Tony that sounds very much like a Holgate special if it's as you describe. Didn't yours have the rear fairleads still in place?

Yep
 

Yes Keith - may photo help investigation?

A photo tells a 1000 words Tony so yes a Photo is a must have for those of us that can't see what you are talking about! :note: :cheers:

Must admit again you are doing a nice job on the old girl :thup2:

As requested
 

G'day fellahs

Photo's as asked - the bit Im refering to is just above the diff. Is it a Holgate genuine accessory or something from Holdens bodyworks. Just keep in mind the truck was an antitank portee converted to general transport in 1944. (i'm guessing it would have had a winch fitted then)

You can see the holes in the chassis where the winch was mounted and I am assuming you are refering to the crossmember with what appears to be a winch cable roller attached? If you look further forward of the diff you can see the flat crossmember has winch rollers on it as well and on a 'normal' winch truck this would be at the rear of the chassis like on the Gun Tractors. Keith (and others) would have a better knowledge of whether it is a genuine all original piece or not and in the correct position for a portee but I have attached a copy of the F60L (no winch) lube chart which shows the chassis layout.

Mods
 

The cable roller for the winch normally goes under the chassis not on top.

Ok
 

Err, does that mean everyone is scrambling frantically for books & manuals???

Any help appreciated. :(

:doh: The only moves I make in a 'frantic' manner are one's I make when I spill hot coffee in my lap! LOL :yappy:

OK Tony the chassis configuration depends on 3 things. The first is are you going to make it into a portee as original or just as a GS truck? The second is how faithfully Original do you want it to be, down to the last nut and bolt or as long as it looks good to the majority of people including the most important, yourself!? The third is if you want a GS truck do you want it with or without a winch? If not and to satisfy #2 a bit then I suggest you remove the crossmembers and rollers for the winch and configure the chassis as in the lube chart I posted earlier. If you want a GS truck with winch then a few things need to be repositioned and of course an original winch found and fitted.

Attached is a F60S (with Winch) lube chart so you can see the differences. The flat plate with the rollers forward of the diff needs to be at the rear of the chassis and the other roller needs to be turned up the other way plus other winch crossmembers fitted as well. ;) lots of work A! :thup:

Good heavens!!
 

Now Im in a bind as to what to do ???

Thanks for some wonderful info cliff........invaluable Ive never seen pictures like these before and they are very helpful.

I still need to unlock the mystery......is this a holgate mod. Or did the guys at holden do this truck a bit differently because it was a portee?

The other thing is what do people think I should do from here to the truck. My initial thought is to just keep going with what Ive got & worry about genuine originality at a later stage.

Build it the way you want it after all it's you that has to be happy with the results. I've got more positive coments than negitive ones and mine is nothing like original because I wanted to keep it a working truck so I could drive it reguarly. :cheers:

OK I think the bit above the diff with the upstanding roller is a Holgate addition and is better removed. The flat plate with the rollers which I mistakely took to be forward of the diff are in fact behind it but should be right on the rear of the chassis "underneath the chassis rail" so this is probably another addition. If it were me I'd try and get a standard rear crossmember without all the winch rollers on it and fit it in place of the flat plate and rollers, remove the add on above the diff and return the chassis to a standard 'No winch' LWB chassis and find or build a GS body as close to original as I could and when finished enjoy the thrill of driving it. Most folk would not know it was not a genuine GS from new truck unless you told them. Plus of course in a few years time when you locate an original portee body along with a 2lb anti tank gun you can always swap bodies and tell the purists who critizied your non genuine GS CMP just what a one fingured salute really means. :D

Many thanks
 

Again Cliff & Robert

Many thanks for the input. I think I'll leave things as they are & continue with rebuild as normal.

We can have another look & derive options over a beer (or two) at Corowa 2010.

Obviously one of these days I would LOVE to find a 2 pounder and a back to restore her to her anti tank glory days.

I'll continue to update this thread with pictures and hopefully further fertile discussion.

Having fun & loving every minute.

2 Pdr Body
 

Hi Tony

I have just had a look at the chassi of my F60l Portee, it's very dark down there, but I am 99.99% sure that my chassis has not go the roller assembly on it, and my spare chassis did not have it either.
The winch is a hand winch that is mounted on the front of the body, under the crew seat.
Last weekend we had the majority of my vehicles out on display, and we demonstrated how to winch the 2 Pdr up onto the back of the truck.

Hope that helps.

Tim Scriven

GT, Go with a GS-style resto, keep the winch fittings because one will turn up one day...
My two bob's worth...

Thanks fellahs
 

Thanks very much Tim & H

Yeah I can't see much point in ripping what's left on there... its not interfering with anything at this point, so we'll compare notes & trucks at the next meet.

This seems to be Corowra at this stage. Tim, I sure hope your Portee makes another appearance then I'll pour all over it with digital camera in hand.

As I mentioned earlier the plan will one day be to get it back to a portee but that will be dependant on stumbling onto a back and a two pounder .

You never know.

Goon morning Tony

have you found a winch for the ford yet, if you haven't we need to find you one before you put ths tray on. I will try to have a look at the blitz we spoke about this weekend to see if it has one.
Max

( being fathers day the thing to do, would be to look for blitzs)

Hi Tony if you want a winch I have one in good working order mounted in a small jib you are welcome to it.

Generous to say the least
 

Robert,

Is there anything you'd like in exchange for the winch? Its an extremely generous offer & heck yeah! I'd love to have it!! Sincerely thank you very much!

Max You've already been more help then I could ever expect of anyone & quite frankly my truck would not be at the stage its up to without the generous amount of time you've provided. To say nothing of the parts that youve GIVEN me without any expectation of return!

Fortunately I do have something for you - to be revealed at another date.

There are other fellahs on here who've also been extremely generous with time, info & photos. You can see who they are from reading this thread!!!

I am stunned by the level of goodwill & generosity on this site. It truly does demonstrate that there are decent people still in world!!
I'm sure the fellahs who have protected our freedom in all conflicts would be grinning from ear to ear if they could see this forum. :thup2:

Hi Tony, you are welcome to it but at that price you get to unbolt it while I watch and learn :D It will be good to double the number of MLUers that have visited here and you can study Keith's blitz as well. I'll have the FEL ready for the lifting :cheers:
PS bring Howard along and we wont need the FEL :devil: