In the preceding post i went for an installation like this one ( M. Bisaillon ) . M Bisaillon put a lot of time and effort into making this Canadian wartime product better known .

As you can see you need three aerial bases on the roof, A (send), A (receive) and B.

Thank you Bruce . Two antennas , one send and one receive . There are two 12 V outlets in the box . One above the charger control box and the other above the door near the blackout switch . Q : What 12 V instrument / light / tool plugs into these outlets ?
. The outlets are clearly indicated on the wiring diagram and are positively 12 V . What are they for ?? Any guesses ? Another information : Both outlets cut off when either the generator compartment door or the main door open by effect of the cut off switches on either door .
Attachment 117905

Can you give me more information? Why are these 12v and where does the current come from? They sure look like period 120V outlets.

I know of no wireless gear or associated piece of equipment that would plug into a socket like that other than a 120v appliance. 12V items used terminal strips and wing nuts or specialized sockets.

Could it be for a lamp like this? I’ll take a better picture of the plug tomorrow

Thanks Bruce and Jordan . These outlets draw current from the batteries . They are connected to the line that feeds the internal lighting and roof fan and are protected by a 10 Amp fuse in the control panel . So with the fan drawing 3.5-4 amps and the two lights drawing 1.5 there is not much left . Like Jordan is telling us , maybe a trouble or reading lamp of some kind ?

This lamp has a twist lock type plug. So I don’t think it was used in the application for your plugs.

Jordan, what kind of bulb does it take? Can you tell if it's 12 or 120 volts?

For Bob's 2K1 either an operator's or trouble lamp seems the most likely use for those sockets. The 'T' shape of the slot would prevent a 12V appliance being accidentally plugged into a 120V socket. Zap.

Some T shapes outlets are meant to accept plugs with blades in either orientation, either vertical or horizontal rather than a T shaped blade. Most of the "adaptable" outlets I've seen only have 1 T slot with the other a normal blade.


I don't know if the NEMA standards for outlets and plugs had been developed by wartime, certainly not with the ground lug.

Thanks Grant ( Bowker ) Can’t find my peculiar set of blades in your very nice table of designs .This outlet is over the door , nearer the cypher clerk while the other is over the control panel nearer the radio operator . Not enough current to power a radio ( 60 Amp fuse for the radios vs 10 Amps for this circuit ) but surely enough for a trouble or reading lamp .

6 battery boxes installed . 4 for the radios & 2 for the Onan generator . Send & receive antennas connected on the A sets . Interior lighting and both 12 V outlets functionnal . Working on the control panel over the next few weeks .

Getting awfully tight in there....it's looking great!!

If it's coming off the 12V circuit via the lighting blackout switch then there must have been a lamp available that could be plugged into it. I'd suspect a desk light for the cipher clerk at the very least. Possibly a soldering iron could be used off it for running repairs as well?

The radio operator may well have had a better lamp than the roof lighting - there were operator desk lamps with low power bulbs for various command vehicles and radio trucks.

Chris.

A trouble or reading lamp would not be polarity sensitive, so the 250V plug "2-20P" in the table would fit the socket in either orientation.

Australian LP Carriers also used civilian domestic (240V) plugs and sockets for 12V trouble lamps. A ready source of a reliable proven design of plug.

Thank you Bruce , Chris, Grant , Jordan and Tony for your contributions . Did i miss someone ? Here is a house outlet from de 40’s in Can/ USA . Does anyone have a picture of a common Canada - British truck radio truck / command post or a trouble or reading light with an end plug of any kind please ? Obviously Jordan , you have posted one good example . What does it come out of ?

I suspect they used a standard commercial lamp of some sort, and simply fitted a low voltage bulb to it. I've seen ES bulbs in all kinds of voltages, so that would make a lot of economic sense - if you needed to use it on a high voltage supply simply change the bulb.

Chris.

Thank you Chris . I will be on the lookout for a period lamp. This picture is of the generator compartment . It is empty . Everything needs to be done . Pictures of the generator trays and racks and connectors would be appreciated please . Thanks !

While we are at it , does anyone have a clue how the Onan 110 V generator is held down on the floor of the lower compartment ?

Are these the type of plugs used. Seem to think they were commonly in domestic use in the U.K. at one time

Thank you Simon , you are probably right !

2k1 'fridge' interior
 

Robert, those photos I sent had some detail that should help on the generator cabinet interior. Much of it (like chorehorse mount) is similar to the HUW so I can help with some of the materials and construction details if you need them.

Yes my friend , your pictures you sent me are VERY useful and thanks for sharing . Yes i would appreciate info on the construction of Chorehorse tray / base plate / mount for your HUW . I assume they will be similar . Cheers .

Fridge
 

This particular picture of yours will be very useful Bruce: Photo credit Bruce Parker.

It is starting to be crowded with wires in the generator compartment !

control panel
 

Working on the control panel today with the help of my friend Yves who knows his stuff ! Had to part out a C-5 Canadian panel to get the unique battery selector .

The generator compartment is wired now ! I will be working on the upper generator tray this week .

Temporary battery / generator control panel installed and functional . The switch on the bottom right between the fuses allows the use of the two battery banks ( 4 batteries in all ) to start the generators . Ingenious on the designer’s part . The larger fuse ( 60 amps ) is to protect the radios , the next one to the right ( 10 amps ) to protect the interior lighting fixtures and the two ( 30 amp ) either side of the switch , the double 300 Watt Chorehorse generators . Nice design . That’s why using the C-5 charging panel would be risky : no circuit protection in case a live wire shorts ... burning smell in a generator or radio and / or melting batteries . Interesting study in design . The porcelain switch on the top left is to select the battery bank feeding the radios . The cutoff switch to the right is to select what generator is charging what battery bank .

The left and right chorehorse mounting rails are made from 2 pieces of 1" by 1/8" angle welded together to form a 1/8" runner. These are welded to the frame Robert has already started installing. Into these runners slides a 1/8" thick plate that the chorehorse bolts to. Once slid into its track of angle iron there are two pins (easily found at Canadian Tire as 1/4" securing loops) and chains that go though holes in the angle iron and plate to hold the genny in place. Locations best guessed from the pics.

Oh, and the plumbing at the lower left is of course the exhaust for the chorehorse(s).

Here is a close up of Bruce ´s description . Photo credit : Reg Hodgson