I thought this was a bit of you!! Seen whilst there.

That's exactly what mine is going to look like..... But grey

Full on erection garage that place !

Gorgeous bit of gentle relief around the valves, breath a bit better that one will.

Grey but three Brodie Helmets instead of the chrome Picklehaube I assume. :)

Ben (hijack over)

Yeah for sure.... Huge charger whirring away underneath.... Going to put some neon lights under the carrier too...Boosh !!!

Rich, that could be a factory relieved block.
My understanding of the reason behind it was to shorten the heat flow path from the cylinder to the ex valve.
I heard the vacuum brakes in trucks leaned off the fuel mixture, causing increased heat which in turn increased the incidence of cracking from the cylinder to the exhaust valve seat.( the block then being of no further use)

Work presses on at an expensive rate... I have been literally in financial dire straits recently, it's been one thing after another, culminating in a destroyed compressor which had to be replaced.

Smiles engineering managed to save my crank, it had to go a further 20 thou than expected, it was in a bad bad way indeed ! New bearings in place then the crankshaft check fitted to make sure it did not bind up.... So far so good !

I need to replace my cam bearings but need to make a tool so I can draw them in... I just need to know the correct diameter of the mandrel.

I have managed to resurrect the rear end linkages for the brake push rods... I had to build them back up then dress them back in the lathe, but they are good to go now. Just need the rods made ! So will need the correct lengths to do this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps05jqs1pg.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psbjpry9aa.jpg

The gearbox has now been sealed shut ready to join the engine and get filled with oil... I had to repair the horse shoe selector bar thingy, but luckily it appears to still fit, and my repair cannot be seen !

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psyirc2xhy.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psgr2r3fzj.jpg

Also in the background I have been having various bins etc made up.. I started now so I don't have to fork out all at once.. I have the bren mag loader box, and the two track guard bins from the front compartment.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psdwlvvkfi.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psrhuecg98.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psr2eeowm9.jpg

You will notice my riveting is not yet complete... One 3/8 to go in and some 5/16.... All have been ordered (and should have been her by now come to think of it)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psibyoimhc.jpg

I can vouch for the quality of work of old buck restorations, they have done a fantastic job on my bins so far !

The project continues ! Only five months left to get her mobile before the show !!!!!

Very nice looking project, the bins also look great, are they affordable?

Yes, best contact the guy direct, but his prices are very competitive indeed

Just a side note when using an engine stand on a flathead engine that the bellhousing area where it bolts to the trany is very thin and all that weight can brake that cast part off the engine. I have made a mount to use with my engine stand that is a copy of what the factory would use and mounts on the exhaust flange of the motor, See pic. It also makes it easier to install the clutch when its on the stand

Yeah cheers for that Dave it will get spun around now that the weight is getting up a bit in it.

An easier option is to use an axle stand on the front end of the crankshaft to take the weight off a bit.

Cheers,

I have a strop on a block and tackle just to take the weight off a wee bit Marc, same thing I suppose, just supported from a different point :-)

Well work continues, the engine block has gone to the machine shop to have the new cam bearings pressed in, and to cross check my work (after all it's my first v8) in the mean time I have been continuing the theme of cleaning bits up.... This mornings efforts was the gear stick. If you recall back and look at the earlier picks the gear knob was snapped off, and it was generally in a seized and rusty state.....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...carrier074.jpg
It had a trip to the molasses bath followed by a trip by the jet wash, and was ready to begin rebuild ! The reverse trigger was a metal one which was knackered so I am on the hunt for another folks (funds waiting just let me know)

I ground off the remains of the stub to level off the gear stick before checking a knob I had lying in amongst my spare parts bins.... A quick measurement of the knob insert that I had showed it to be 5/16... So out came the drill and taps, I then cut a bolt down to act as a studded bar, dialled it in then wound the knob on.... And she seems good to go !

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pszqp6orfv.jpg


Work is progressing slowly but surely, the engine is the last expensive hurdle, I hope to get her fully mobile by May, then I can concentrate on the pretty bits.... Time will tell, but as long as the lump works she should make it to W&P in one form or another...
I just need to work out the correct diameter rod for the push rods that run front to rear, I know they are 7'1" long.... Are they a high grade steel or just mild ???

Richard the rods are medium tensile 7/16" dia. To put the BSF thread on, put the rod in a lathe (support the rod) in the chuck. Put your die holder against the tailstock to keep it square, and carefully turning the chuck by hand, start cutting your thread.
If you search the threads I started you will find one with all the rod lengths for a riveted carrier.
Is the reverse lock out lever an alloy one? (MkI* should be?) they were a commercial item, and I think still available from Macs (not sure)
The Brit. one was steel and longer if I recall.
That is an interesting bend in the gear lever, which might cause you some problems in the gear lever gate. (they were straight)

On a second look the bend is above the gate.
BTW that mag loader box looks nice!

Cheers Lynn, yes the trigger was alloy, bit gutted about being broke,,,,, but that's life.

I did not know the gear sticks were straight, wonder why that has been done (other than a large lumberjack could not get first without gouging himself with the gear stick)

I could not see any signs of it being heated either..

I think I will leave it like that for now then straighten it later after the carrier has been to W&P


(That's code for me bottling it)

I think the big lumberjack's hand was thown back under the vivid acceleration :D

The shift lever in my MKII has the same bends as Richies. Just for your info.Not sure that is relevant to yours,Rich.

The step in the stick is normal, the photo here gives the illusion that the gear stick is bent back or as we say round here "banana'd"..... I have checked and it's straight....

S0.....
 

you are a fan of the molasses bath?

The molasses tank is a great method , you just not be in a rush .

I got the mix to work to this grade in about three days.... But it really really stinks !

You need to remember that my budget is minuscule, I cannot throw wads of money at it like others can, so instead of spending hundreds in blasting (which won't us seize bolts anyway) I spend £30 on molasses which lasts me six months. It's top notch on seized track too, as Shaun says you cannot be in a rush when using it though.

Don't waste your money blasting track........ It just comes back clean and seized :D

Molasses Rock hahahahahahahaha

Well got a call from machine shop engine is done... Shall have her built up during the course of next week, then just need to add some fuel and spark, and I can see if I have built a dud !

I finally managed to fit the steering bolt into the base of the column which was a relief ! The steel is ordered for the rod linkages, so it is all coming together now....

I am on the hunt for the armour flap that sits over the gunners aperture to copy if anyone is willing to let me borrow one for a couple of weeks ?

A pal of mine is up for a crack at making one for me.

Cheers

Richie

sorry mate can't let you have mine, as it's a copy that a mate did for me, what he didn't tell me was he copied it from a t16 which is very slightly wider :doh:

Doe ! :doh: :bang: :bang: :bang:

Bit more progress on the carrier, I have got the engine back from Northern Rebore's with the new cam bearings installed and the bores honed, I made a bracket to mount the engine on the stand by the exhaust ports. I feel a bit more confident with it now.

Job one once mounted was to clean all the crap out of the block yet again... I had hoped the machine shop would have done this but never mind

Then I set about installing the cam and the valve assemblies once and for all ! I had to make a pry bar tool to locate the valve guides into the block, then the retainers were added. A but fiddly for me but I got there in the end..... I then had to set the clearances 14thou for the exhausts and 12 thou for the inlets..... The adjustable followers are a godsend !!! Just make sure you drill the block in the right place ! :bang:

Once I was happy everything spun and all the valves opened and closed without binding, I set the cam timing in place via the large drive sprocket... I then located the opposite mark on the crank and seated the crank in place... Then it was a case of adding the caps and introducing the rods and pistons.

I am missing six castellated rod nuts so will need to make some calls... I have half the pistons in the block..... The rest will have to wait until next time.


It's nice to finally get the thing put back together !

Can only seem to add one pic at a time.

And here is the last one for now.... Those shiney pistons and valves all dull from oily paws... Sigh.

Richie,

Now would be a good time to mark TDC on your pulley and cover!!!

Cheers,

Pulley is still lying in the box, it needs cleaned and painted, but will get that marked up... I take it you do that to time in (advance / retard) the dizzy ? Usually I mark the flywheel ?

Yes, but you can't see the flywheel in the carrier. So pulley is easier and works just as good.